The Wrath of Grapes

Thursday, 07 January 2010 17:23
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_DSC5144Shrivelled walnut brain? Carpet tongue? Sandpapered eyes and hair that actually hurts? We’re here to help. AsiaLIFE investigates some local hangover remedies.

Ah, drinking – the cause of, and solution to most of life’s great problems. Phnom Penh, with its tempting overabundance of drinking dens, tends to produce a healthy crop of drunks. But alcohol, the great leveler, makes no exceptions – next day no-one is spared the grim reality of what feels like a fate worse than death. Fortunately, there is a wealth of different options to better cope with the awful aftereffects of alcoholic overindulgence.

With its funky artwork and wrap around windows, Metro is certainly one of the places to be seen for cosmopolitan Penhites. But, while listening to the shrill banter of overpaid NGO staff and the gruff braying of puffed-up businessmen may sound unappealing for those nursing the hangover from hell, the cocktails are definitely worth a look. The Ginger Metropolitan (US$4.10), absolute citron, cointreau and lime juice, is a hale tonic indeed. Tangy, sweet and bitter all at once, the taste is perfect to cut through the day after’s nausea, sharp enough to bludgeon its way through even the most deadened taste buds. Accompanied by salty crisps, a safe precursor to a meal for the hypersensitive, this is like a medicinal whisky sour with a kick – ginger beer for grownups.
Café Metro, 271 Street 148, corner Sisowath Quay

Chow, a shiny white homage to Bangkok’s Bed Club, has made a name for itself as a hangout for the preened and the peremptory on the riverside. Yet few have realized the breezy rooftop’s potential for a relaxing hair-of-the-dog daytime drink. Luckily, a shiny lift eliminates most of the stairs, though the last two temple-throbbing flights could be an unwelcome surprise. Still, it’s a small price to pay for the sweeping views over the river and beyond, and a much more relaxed feel than the 1970’s Buck Rogers futurism downstairs. The gentle beats are soothing and a dip in the shallow tiled pool is the perfect refresher. The Chow Bloody Mary (US$6), a cocktail clearly invented for the chronically hung over, is given a Mediterranean feel with olives as well as celery, and a combination of red and green Tabasco gives the kick, replacing the usual Worcestershire sauce and occasional horseradish. Thinner and shorter than the usual, a secret ingredient (red wine, according to the waiter), this is a very quaffable, moreish heart starter, sure to put even the terminal back on their feet.
Chow, 363 Sisowath Quay

Get rid of hangovers the English way over at the new 3 Rivers bar restaurant and guesthouse. As most Brits will tell you, a hearty dose of cholesterol is probably not just what the doctor ordered, but will set the hurting back on the path to recovery. The Hangover Special (US$7.50) consists of a full English breakfast (with proper breakfast sausages), a Royal D, that orange re-hydration wonder worker, and a thick and spicy Bloody Mary. The open-plan bar boasts a wide range of seating to suit all – even the wooziest party casualty couldn’t fall out of the padded loungers, and the quiet side street location is perfect for an afternoon’s recuperation.
3 Rivers, Street 258, near Hun Sen Park

Café Sentiment, a glass box perched on a prominent corner, might seem good only to compound your miseries, putting your bedraggled form on show for passersby to sneer at. But brave the crowd of busy suits and you’ll find a surprisingly tasty and uniquely Khmer treat – a Green Mango Shake (US$2). Those not overly-fond of the eye-wateringly bitter unripe fruit, usually served in Cambodia with damp chilli salt, need not fear. While the eerie green liquid is anything but visually appealing, the sourness is tamed in the thickened shake, with a little sugar to round out the taste. Grab one of Sentiment’s tasty pastries for an accompanying sugar rush. One word of warning – beware brain freeze.
Café Sentiment, 156 Corner Streets 63 & 278
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Believers in fate will see the Lost and Found as a fortuitous appellation calling in the Lakeside strays. The low-slung entrance lurking down a diminutive back alley hides an almost Ottoman opulence. Mounds of soft cushions give an impression of a sleek Sheikh’s harem; ideal for lying prone, swearing you’ll never touch another drop. Luckily, the Lost and Found has a cornucopia of tipples on offer for those with less willpower, along with a large collection of films to blankly stare at as you slowly recover. Good fish and chips is available across the road.
Lost and Found, First alley on the right of Street 93, Lakeside

The Blue Lime, a short stagger from the Royal Palace and a crawl away from the National Museum, offers a verdant haven from the pitiless streets. A long lie in cool, dappled shade in the lush, exotic garden is a great rejuvenator after a dip in the swimming pool. Those worried about sinking need not fret – the 14m-pool is filled with natural sea salt water from Kampot for easy floating. Big blocks on the side allow punters to sip from their restorative cocktails while swimming. The restaurant serves food on the terrace or day-beds around the pool from 7am.
Blue Lime, 42 Street 19z, behind Royal Institute of Fine Arts
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