AsiaLIFE

AsiaLIFE selected over thirty brands from eleven different countries spread over four continents – then we got Johan Smits to try them out. This month we look at the European brands and toss in one lone Mexican. In our next issue we’ll get up close with our Asian and Australian friends. Cheers...

According to one Phnom Penh bar owner, hundreds of different types of beer were available in Cambodia during the UNTAC days thanks to merry peacekeepers that brought over cases of their own country’s finest brew. That’s just one way to keep the peace. Although there may not be hundreds of different brands available today, you don’t need to wear a blue helmet any longer to find special or unusual beers in Phnom Penh.

The Black Stuff

Our journey starts in Ireland. Ireland’s national treasure is best enjoyed in a proper setting and poured accordingly – with pride. Both Green Vespa and Huxley’s serve the widget-can Guinness at US$6. In an emergency you can try finding them at Friend Mart in Street 63, or still cheaper at Veggies in Street 240. The Malaysian alternative can be found all over town but is hardly comparable to the real thing. With its blacker than black colour, the smell of Guinness is surprisingly faint. But the nice creamy head and dense texture is a good precursor to its velvety taste. Remember this one for St. Patrick’s Day (Mar. 17).

Belgium’s Biblical Beers

Ever wondered why there are no famous Belgians? Well, it’s because they were all far too busy making great beer. We found no less than nine Belgian brews in Phnom Penh, but only one place where you can get them all – and each of them poured in its proper glass! The owner of La Patate in Street 5 hand-carried the glasses from Belgium and yes, like drinking a good wine, it does make a difference.

The hardest one to find in town is the suitably named Forbidden Fruit. Its dark, opaque colour is reminiscent of cedars, and the smell is sweet with a hint of fruit. A well-balanced beer, like many Belgians, it has a thick, rich body with a low level of carbonation. The two-finger head keeps a good retention. At 8.5 percent the alcohol is surprisingly well hidden but still comes through in the finish. The added bonus is the biblically inspired label, which resulted in a temporary export ban to the U.S. Well worth the hunt – Gasolina is one of the rare bars that serves it.

A little easier to find, though still rare, is the equally aptly named Duvel – ‘devil’ in Flemish. This beauty pours a bright gold with a steady stream of bubbles. Thanks to the secondary fermentation in the bottle, it has one of the most dense, lathering white heads of any beer – if poured properly in its belly-shaped glass. The nose offers a crisp and fruity mix of Asian pear, cloves and yeast with a hint of caramel and flowers. This Devil tastes great and fills your soul with heavenly delight. At 8.5 percent, it’s strong enough to keep you very happy for the rest of the night.

More available across town are the other Belgians – Chimay Red and Blue labels. Brewed by the order of Trappist monks in Belgium, this is as close as you can get to heaven. But beware, still at a potent 7 and 9 percent alcohol, these rich beers are no angels. Their brothers Leffe Brune and Blonde are no Trappist beers, but nevertheless do not pale in comparison. Just like their fair cousin Hoegaarden Grand Cru – younger sister of the regular Hoegaarden and arguably the best white wheat beer (weissbeer) in town (8.5 percent) – these brands are now to be savoured in several bars and available at some shops. Finally, there still is that black duck of Belgian beers, Stella Artois. Not fit for comparison with the ones above but at US$1.5 at La Patate, this remains a palatable alternative to Heineken or Bud.

Don’t Mention the Beer

Moving to Germany, one name immediately comes out on top – Erdinger. This weissbeer has a straw-yellow, cloudy colour, reminiscent of German summers in the Alps, darting around in lederhosen and chasing Heidi in the fields. With a nice head and a floral taste this weissbeer certainly goes down easily enough, perhaps too easily.

At Edelweiss on Sisowath Quay, the smiling Srey Lux can also pour you a Russen Mass in a one-litre stein that weighs no less than 2kg when filled with half a litre of Erdinger and a can of sprite – Germany’s version of a shandy. Just lifting the monster-drink and bringing it to your lips is a far more pleasant alternative to those boring workouts in the gym.  At a mere 4.5 percent, this is a great thirst-quencher without having to worry about how you will get back home afterwards. As with most weissbeers, drinking it with a wedge of lemon adds a zest of freshness. Harder to find is Erdinger Kristallklar. Similar to its blonde sister but filtered and lighter in taste, it  is popular with Cambodian drinkers. There’s also a brunette version. Being gentlemen, we prefer the blonde.

Down Mexico Way

After putting on our sombreros we walked down the riverfront to Mexico. Hurley, Cantina’s American bar-owner, tells us that Mexican beer dates back to before the arrival of European conquistadors in America. But it was some German immigrants who helped cement the art of brewing as an all-Mexican endeavour. Apparently, Maximilian, the Austro-German emperor who briefly ruled Mexico in the middle of the 19th century, never travelled without his brew-masters.

The best-known brands, Corona and Sol, are available in many bars and shops around town, but we found Pacifico Clara only at Cantina. At less than 5 percent, Pacifico is not just another thirst-quencher but this crisp Mexican also tastes great. No talking about Mexican beer without mentioning the lime. Our charming waitress San Paula served Pacifico with a slice of lime sticking out of the bottle, but in Mexico it is done primarily for tourists. We definitely preferred it with the lime but then, we’re not Mexican…

Many bar owners admit that the availability of special beers is not always a given, but if your favourite brew is out of stock, come back in a couple of weeks. 

Nearly Extinct
Pacifico: Cantina
Verboden Vrucht: Gasolina, La Patate
Erdinger Krystallklar: Tell
Erdinger Dark: One More Pub, Tell
Guinness (draught widget-can): Green Vespa, Huxley’s, Veggie’s, Friend Mart

Endangered
Hoegaarden Grand Cru: Gasolina, Equinox, La Patate
Chimay Rouge and Chimay Bleue: Gasolina, La Patate, Veggie’s, Friend Mart
Leffe Blonde and Leffe Brune: Gasolina, Equinox, La Patate, Friend Mart
Duvel: Gasolina, Equinox, La Patate, Veggie’s, Friend Mart

Easier to Spot
Erdinger Blonde: Huxley’s, One More Pub, La Croisette, Edelweiss, Tell, Steve’s Steakhouse and some other restaurants in town
Stella Artois: Green Vespa, La Patate, some beer gardens across town.