AsiaLIFE

AsiaLIFE whets its whistle on the complex and wonderful world of ‘The Water of Life’. 

Never has there been a more complex beverage than ‘Uisge beatha’ (Gaelic for the water of life) for with it comes a history fraught with copious law, taxation and brewing issues. Whisky or whiskey, depending on which side of the Irish Sea the potion was distilled, continues to leave its compelling mark on the palate of the liquor-swilling world.

From Babylonia to Dundee, from the second millennium to the twenty-first century production of whisky has undergone countless modifications. The art of distillation began in Mesopotamia (modern Iraq) where it is believed Irish missionaries brought it over to the Emerald Isle around the sixth or seventh century. Its use circulated through the monasteries predominantly for medicinal purposes, and became a treatment for ailments such as palsy and small pox.

Some five centuries of inebriation and healing later the antidote spread to the shores of Scotland. At this point the whisky business began to thrive, even though the distillation process was rather primitive. Whisky was imbibed at a young age giving it a raw and harsh taste. It could be extremely dangerous. Only by chance did someone dare drink a bottle that had been disregarded for several years and realise how smooth a drink it could be.

Tax issues occupied the next couple of centuries forcing Scotland’s distillation underground. In an attempt to avoid the excise man Scottish distillers took to brewing their whisky at night to hide the smoke rising from the stills, a process which became known as moonshine.

Over fifty percent of Scottish output was illegal. Since these times whisky has developed into a worldwide regulated spirit with many competing denominations of origin classes and types. U.S., Finland, Germany, India and Japan are amongst many nations that have joined the market. But it is ‘Scotch’ that dominates.

The laws on the production of whisky are stringent and plentiful. Anything bearing the scotch label must be distilled in Scotland and matured for a minimum of three years and one day – quite what happens in that one day remains a mystery. Irish whiskeys, in comparison, must be produced in Ireland and aged in wooden casks for a period of no less than three years. The most highly prized whiskies are the single malts – distilled by a single distillery in a pot still, using malted barley as the only grain.

Whiskies of the Penh

The Cavern Bar, Street 104
This diminutive hideaway, sandwiched inconspicuously between the dazzling neon bustle of Street 104 is the single malt aficionados wet dream. No less than sixteen first class whiskies are on offer from the Penh’s consummate whisky provider. The Macallan 1881 is one of the smoothest single malts you will taste. Carrying that unique Macallan character this vintage gold drop has a wonderful mix of fruits and a floral and sweet malted barley aroma balanced with light ginger spice (not to be confused with Geri Halliwell). The taste is smooth and carries a comfortable aftertaste. At US$7 a glass, it’s reasonably priced.

Green Vespa, Sisowath Quay
The Penh’s favourite Irish bar has come up trumps again with a generous selection of ‘Scotch’. Not without good reason is the Talisker 10 years the Isle of Skye’s finest export. It’s an alluring, sweet, full-bodied whisky with a warming afterglow that comes highly recommended. Alternatively, opt for the 12-year-old Glen Elgin which is an incomparable malt of completely contrasting taste. Clinical and minty on the palate it carries an intriguing, delicate kick. The Vespa offers the perfect atmosphere in which to imbibe and special Malt Mondays.

Chow, Sisowath Quay
Forget the blanched downstairs restaurant, and head for the rooftop bar. Simply stunning, it has views to match. It also boasts an extensive single malt menu with ‘Oban’ the elite of the collection. This 14-year-old single malt goes down extremely smoothly giving you a wonderful warm sensation from tongue to oesophagus. This drop is top notch and if your wallet sanctions it (US$10 a glass) treat yourself to a wee dram, sit by the pool and enjoy the view.

Sonoma, 32 Street 108
This newly opened oyster bar is a small, convivial affair. Adjacent to the Old Market, barely a stone’s throw from Sisowath Quay, it offers the perfect opportunity for an alternative culinary experience. The Kilpatrick oyster dish (Worcester sauce, black pepper and dry Heseltine bacon) with a tumbler of 10-year-old Laphroaig is an exquisite affiliation. This is a full-bodied smoky, single malt with a residual sweetness and a warming finish. As civilised a place as you will find to enjoy this classic dram.

Armands Bistro, Street 108
Discreet and enigmatic, this petite cloak and dagger French bistro oozes warmth from every pore. This is the Latin quarter, Paris 1943. At any moment you expect the door to open and in walk two German soldiers, who place their hats on the bar and get passed a bottle from a rotund, mustachioed barman.  Order a rib eye steak with sautéed potatoes, green beans and roasted tomatoes. Wash it down with a Macallan 12. With a complex fruity taste and hint of spice this is not a light tipple. Despite the citrusy aroma this is an over powering malt. A scotch drinkers whisky, the dilettante palate would most likely not enjoy the immediate and powerful flavour. Although for US$15 all in this represents real value for money.