AsiaLIFE

There is only one place to go in the Capital if you crave the infectious grooves of West African music. With a little bit of something for everyone, the name Do It All Bar seems apropos. Craig Gerard chats with Enoch Smith to find out what “It” is.

Though it’s late afternoon- about the time when most establishments are cranking up their Happy Hour- Smith is fast asleep and camouflaged on a black leather couch. This catnap is not surprising. It is evidence of the constant late nights and long hours he puts into the Do It All bar. He is literally just a few hazy hours away from running a 24-hour establishment, with only seven staff members. It is the sort of drive and determination that an African businessman can bring to Southeast Asia.

He came to Cambodia three and a half years ago as a tourist. Living in South Korea at the time, he was familiar with the Thailand-Cambodia-Vietnam circuit. But as many expats find out, the Kingdom has an allure, especially to entrepreneurs. “I found Cambodia more open for doing business,” Smith explained. With fewer barriers and lots of potential, the Penh seemed like an ideal location to settle down for a while.

He took some time to survey the market before settling on opening a bar. Noticing there were no restaurants or bars catering to the growing number of Africans in the capital, he found his niche. “Really, we are targeting everyone,” Smith says, hoping to increase the appeal to Westerners as well as Cambodians. And to that end the menu has a spattering of Western dishes and a large selection of Khmer food. Though it’s the African selections that set Do It All apart from other restaurants in Phnom Penh.

“I wanted to create an authentic African experience,” he quips, showing me the “special” menu with Fufu, African-style BBQ fish, and other West African cuisine. According to Smith, “the chefs are very good,” so the all-Cambodian kitchen can handle the subtle nuances of Nigerian cooking. Though you may be hard pressed to find West African dishes actually listed in the menu, the regulars don’t need a list – they know what’s available and order what they want.

Before moving to Cambodia, Smith spent seven years in South Korea. Koreans who wander into the bar are always shocked to hear him converse in their native tongue. He slides easily in Khmer while talking to his staff, but can address his other customers in Igbo, his childhood language. All together, he is fluent in five languages.

The drive that keeps his business successful in a difficult and saturated market is not immediately apparent. Smith comes across as mellow, easygoing, yet calculated and sharp. His broad white smile hides something. Those eyes, outlined by two tribal scars on either side, have seen their share of difficulties. Regardless of the past, he seems to have settled into a comfortable, albeit exhausting life in Cambodia.

So, what about that name? While the Do It All bar may conjure up images of some of the Penh’s less reputable night-life spots, the notion that this is anything more than a bar makes Smith chuckle with surprise. “Some costumers come looking for something else,” he says, “it is a bar after all.” But he assures a brothel was the furthest thing from his mind when he chose the name. “I wanted a name that would inspire customers,” he offers. His wife, who is Khmer, didn’t like the name at first, so getting Do It All on the billboard took some lobbying, but Smith says it has paid off. The name does attract foot traffic. Pedestrians stop by, curious about what “It” is. And almost all of them are pleasantly surprised to find a wide selection of drinks, a variety of food, and some great music.

“We play music you can’t hear anywhere else in the city,” boasts Smith. On an average night, DJ Rob spins hip hop, reggae and African music, but on the second and last Friday of every month, Do It All hosts the African Dance Party, with hits from Congo, Nigeria, Cameroon, Mali and Senegal. On these nights, partygoers shake their hips to lively West African beats. It is the kind of music that makes your hips move and keeps a smile on your face. And these intoxicating smiles keep the Do It All Bar entertaining long into the night.

Do It All bar.
Open 9am to 2am Monday-Thursday,  9am to 4am Friday-Sunday