AsiaLIFE

Tea works a treat in any situation, yet until now quality teas have largely been unavailable in the capital. Nora Lindstrom talks with two tea-lovers on a mission to rectify that state of affairs, by introducing the art of tea to Cambodia.

From cream teas in Cambridge to tea ceremonies in Kyoto, tea is the world’s most popular drink. Made from the camellias sinensis plant, the beverage has a curious past including starting wars, sparking a revolution and making millions work in dire servitude. Always the satirist, George Orwell called it the mainstay of civilisation in Britain, referring not only to the British obsession with tea, but how the spread of tea was partly propelled by British colonialism.

Apart from wars and politics, there is also a benign, sociable side to tea. A cup of the local variety is a compulsory component of social events in many countries, and can serve to solidify friendships and build trust. In their traditional tea ceremonies, the Japanese have perfected “the way of tea”, a philosophy that combines tea with principles of harmony, respect, purity and tranquillity.

Though drinking tea in Cambodia is as common as potholes in the road, many claim the country lacks a refined tea culture, and lovers of the beverage often complain about the lack of quality teas. “All the restaurants serve tea, but it’s very cheap tea because it is served for free,” says Hong Bunty, Managing Director of TWG Tea in Cambodia, a Singaporean company. From its flagship store in Amanjaya hotel, TWG is trying to introduce superior teas into the market, and slowly raise interest in the art and culture of tea.  

“At the moment, the Cambodian market for quality tea is very small. A lot of cheap tea is imported from neighbouring countries such as Vietnam and China,” Bunty laments. He notes that the quality of the final cup is a reflection not only of the tea leaves themselves, but also of how they are stored and whether loose or bagged tea is used. TWG Tea is careful not only to store its tea correctly, but has further created a recognisable brand, a logo reminiscent of colonial tea companies as well as appealing packaging to go with the product. At the shop in Phnom Penh, 30 varieties of tea from all over the world are available, as well as six different types of tea flowers.

Bunty’s love for tea extends beyond the requirements of his job. He says he enjoys not only the delicate taste of tea, but also the air of timelessness it embodies. “The culture of tea is to relax, no rushing,” he says, further comparing tea to wine, in its variety of subtle flavours and smells.

Kung Fu Tea

Chinese-Cambodian Huot Vong Botra is also a fan of the beverage. He learnt to appreciate tea during his 10 years in China.  “Before I went to China I hated drinking tea,” he says. “But over there everyone drank tea, and I noticed many people lived to old age and were healthy despite Chinese food being quite fat.”

Botra was fascinated, to the extent that he sought out a Chinese tea master with whom he studied the art of tea for close to three years before returning to Cambodia. In May, he opened his own tea shop in Phnom Penh, China Brand Tea.

Like Bunty, Botra hopes to share his passion and introduce the art of tea to Cambodia. In his shop at the corner of Monivong and Mao Tse Tung Boulevards, Botra invites customers to try the different varieties of mainly Chinese tea on sale, which include all main Chinese varieties from pu’er through green tea to oolong. China Brand Tea also stocks a large amount of tea sets, the prices of which can reach well into the hundreds.  

Botra enjoys sharing his knowledge of making tea the traditional Chinese way. Though not quite as ceremonial as the Japanese way, has a particular sequence and purpose. “There are eight steps to making Chinese tea,” he explains, showing the different pots and utensils required. “This way of making tea is called Kung Fu – like the martial art. It’s about spending time and patience to make tea and enjoy the taste slowly.”

DIY

After a tutorial at China Brand Tea, you can try out your skills at Tea Club Café & Restaurant. At the quiet Chinese-style tea rooms, you can order a complete tea ceremony set for as little as US$2.50, with a choice of oolong, jasmine, long qin, pu’er or chrysanthemum tea. Served out of regular teapots, other teas are also available, including medlar jujube tea, a flower tea which amongst other ingredients includes raved-about superfood goji berries.   

For a taste of TWG’s teas outside of the shop where Bunty will gladly serve you a cuppa, head to Java Tea Rooms on Norodom Boulevard. The comfortable café stocks a wide range of the brand’s teas, many of which, unlike traditional Chinese teas, are flavoured with herbs and spices. The brews come served in TWG’s own metal and porcelain teapots, which according to Bunty are special in that they retain the tea’s temperature for at least an hour. “Tea is meant to be enjoyed over time,” Bunty emphasises.

Though the days of tea-induced wars may be over, controversies nevertheless remain. Thankfully, these are related mainly to milk and sugar, that is, whether these should be added, and in which order. However you choose to have your tea, with two new tea shops in the capital, you can at least be sure to get a nice, satisfying cuppa.


How To Do Kung Fu Tea

Warm the teapot and cups with hot water
Place tea leaves in a separate, lidded cup
“Wash” the tea for a few seconds by pouring boiled water into the lidded cup. This helps the tea leaves open and removes any dust
Pour the “wash” into the teapot through a strainer and then to the teacups, but discard immediately
Pour fresh, boiled water onto the tea leaves and allow to brew. Brewing times vary according to leaves used  
Pour the brewed tea into teapot through a strainer
Pour tea into cups laid before each participant
Taste the tea
Note that the same leaves are used seven to eight times, with the best brew usually achieved between the second and the fifth cup.