Malaysian food is often overshadowed by its neighbour to the north. This is a pity as the cuisine has a unique flavour, nestling somewhere between Thai and Indian on the palate. Rohimah opened Café Malaya on Street 118, close to the Central Market some four years ago, before moving two doors along the road a month ago. This no-nonsense, family-run restaurant serves food just he way that Malay’s like it – in a buffet.
The formula is simple. The table at the far end of the restaurant has several trays filled with various Malay dishes. You simple grab a plate and stack it up with as much food as you want (US$4). When we visited options included beef rendang, kari ayam (chicken curry), sayur goreng (fried vegetables), pajeri (an aubergine dish), ikan goring (fried fish) and curried eggs. Rohimah assures that the dishes are changed every day, although she had never counted how many dishes she perfected during her many years in Malaysia.
The standout dish was the beef rending. The tender pieces of beef literally melt away in your mouth, while the pajeri was an interesting way of serving the vegetarian staple. The only real criticism was there was not really too much on offer for vegetarians – the fried vegetables looked a little sorry and there is only so far that a curried egg will go. With no alcohol on the menu, customers should try the teh talik, a sweet milky tea, referred to as Malay tea ‘cappuccino’ by one of the customers. Open from 10.30 to 8pm, it’s best to arrive early if coming for lunch, as the many regular customers tend to pile their plates high before noon.
Café Malaya, 65 Street 118
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