AsiaLIFE

Helen might be a mysterious figure about town, but for years now she has saved many a starving backpacker.

"I love this place, it reminds me of home," the Spanish journalist says, as he slides past me in the narrow entrance to Helen's. Before he slips out into the bright sunlight and traffic of Norodom he murmurs in my ear, "Get the apple pie."

Wedged in between T-shirt shops by Street 294, this unassuming, open shopfront serves cheap, tasty Filipino food. The awning declares it Helen's Bakery, but just beyond the cases selling baked goods is the tiny, cosy dining room. Just look behind the glass counter where Helen is serving, point to what looks good, and you'll get a plateful for an unreal US$1.50.

Chilli con carne did not have red beans that day, but the browned beef, onions, carrot and potato were simmered perfectly to a soft, tender consistency, and spiced with oregano, cumin and chilli. The deep fried sea fish was a bit dry but fresh – excellent with a little chilli / soy sauce mix. The pakbet, a vegetable stew of eggplant, pumpkin and okra was pleasantly rich and not too heavy, the vegetables all cooked well but not mushy. Chicken stew with diced carrots and potatoes was another comforting dish. The homemade thousand island dressing on the fresh salad greens was an unexpected treat. It even tempted my salad-phobic dining companion to eat his veggies.

Originally from Davo, Helen has been in Phnom Penh for 20 years. She opened her restaurant seven years ago. Lunch is buffet-style, while breakfast and dinner can be ordered from the menu, which includes enchiladas, tacos, burgers, fried chicken and sandwiches. In addition to pancakes, eggs, bacon and ham at breakfast, she offers tapsilog, a fried rice and egg dish that comes with either beef, minced pork or dried fish. Add San Miguel beer for US$1 and desserts like mocha chocolate cake also for US$1, no wonder it's on many people's radar.

Come early for lunch as by 1pm the food was dwindling. If you load your plate higher, the price goes up slightly, topping out at US$2.50. And remember to leave room for the apple pie.

Helen’s Bakery, Norodom Blvd. Open 6.30am to 8pm.