AsiaLIFE

Since opening, riverside restaurant, Metro Café has become one of the capital’s most popular dining outlets, but what goes on behind the scenes? Nora Lindstrom finds out.

The cool, chic and calm exterior of Metro Café does not prepare you for what awaits behind the scenes. The kitchen is hot, cramped, and full of activity as meals are dished out to hungry customers. Set in one room with conspicuous black and yellow tiles, there are different stations for hot and cold plates and several pots bubbling away at the stove. One member of staff is busy doing the dishes, while others go about preparing orders – and this is during the lull period between lunch and dinner.

The Set-Up

Thirteen staff work under Executive Chef Lim Heang serving over 100 plates on a daily basis. Originally from Kampong Cham Province, Heang was taught by an Australian chef. He worked with his father at the InterContinental Hotel, as well as at the FCC, before taking over at Metro in 2006. Driven by a desire to please customers, his attention to detail – down to the last piece of ornamental bell pepper – is evident when you see him in action. “I like to cook Asian food because of the presentation” he explains. The 28-year old comes across as soft-spoken and somewhat shy. It is difficult to imagine him shouting at staff in Gordon Ramsey-style.

Most ingredients come from local markets, arriving at 8am every morning. Then they are pre-chopped and stored away in neat boxes, before the kitchen officially opens at 10.30am. Other ingredients are imported, such as Metro’s famous steaks, made with meat provided by AusKhmer. Heang says he serves over three Kampot Peppercorn steaks each day, despite the price tag of US$16. The fish is sourced from Central Market.

Scandinavian Support

The kitchen has recently received a short-term Danish reinforcement in the form of Nikolaj Lenz. A newcomer to Phnom Penh, he is here to hone the skills of the kitchen staff at Metro, and help develop the menu. Excited about the opportunity, he hopes to create a weekly specials menu, enlarge the selection of healthy drinks, as well as do some wine training with the staff. Any development will be strictly in the Metro – food of international standard with a Khmer twist. A new menu is all but published.

Overall he is pleased with the efficiency and cleanliness of the place, “though there is of course always room for improvement”. He has even earned the nickname ‘Mr Bean’ from the staff as a result of all the pointing he does during training. “I call it the nosy finger” he says. “I point at something and let them try to figure out what’s wrong.”

Satisfied with the progress being made, he recognizes that the most challenging aspect is to ensure implementation of what has been taught. “We’ve done everything from simple training to using baking paper on cutting boards when it’s busy, and how to clean knives,” he explains. “I make all members of staff taste everything. Taste perception here is really good, but measuring ingredients is important to maintain the same standard of the dish.”

Social Responsibility

A portion of Metro’s profits go to supporting the Cambodian Children’s Fund (CCF), a Phnom Penh-based organisation. CCF provides shelter and teaching, including restaurant training, to impoverished children in Cambodia. Currently five youngsters from CCF are employed at Metro – three girls and two boys. The restaurant also provides financial support to staff for further education outside the restaurant.

Nick points out that the management is keen to develop the Khmer staff so that the restaurant can essentially be run by them. “In a few years time, if they stick with it, these guys are going to be on top of the hospitality industry in Cambodia” he predicts.

Metro Café, Cnr. of Street 148 & Sisowath Quay