Angkor with Children

Exploring the temples of Angkor with young children can be challenging. But it's also rewarding to see these wonders through your child's eyes, as Angela Savage reveals.

I first visited Siem Reap and the surrounding temples in 1992. Back then, the United Nations was running Cambodia, civil war was still raging in the countryside, and there was just me and my partner — literally. We barely saw another living soul. Sixteen years later, we returned with our nearly-three-year-old daughter to a town that had changed so much it was unrecognisable, and temples crowded with foreign tourists. It was a very different  experience but equally worthwhile.

The first thing that struck me about visiting Angkor with our daughter was that what excited us was rarely the same as what excited her. Exploring the jungle-covered ruins of Ta Prohm might be fun, but what really had her riveted were the tiny frogs and giant snails that shared the stones with her (we were warned against touching the snails as they can cause a rash). While she showed mild interest in the carvings of the apsaras at Angkor Thom, she was thrilled by the group of apsara dancers in traditional costume who posed for photos with her for a mere US$1 donation.

Another friend's kids most enjoyed the grassy expanse in front of the Terrace of the Elephants, and watching the real elephants ferry the tourists around Angkor Wat. The horses, too, are popular with the kids. But visiting the temples themselves can be boring, if not gruelling for a toddler. So here are a few tips, gleaned from a number of families, for making the trip as enjoyable as possible for everyone.

If your back is up to it, consider carrying your child in a baby/toddler backpack. If you live in Phnom Penh and don't have your own, someone on the Yahoo group Cambodia Parent Network might lend you one. (Contact: This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it .) If your toddler is too heavy or active to be carried, make sure they have decent walking shoes that don't cause blisters (seems like a no-brainer, but we got caught out on this one). Be realistic about what you can achieve – visiting 2 or 3 temples is probably enough for one day. In kid-friendly Cambodia, a good guide will be sensitive to kids' needs, such as pointing out all the fantastic animals to be seen on the bas-reliefs at Angkor Wat and the Bayon. Ours even carried our daughter up the steeper staircases so we could all enjoy the view. Stay at a hotel with a pool and make the most of it to take time-out

Some midrange, family-friendly hotels recommended by resident expats are the Auberge Mont Royal d'Angkor, the Borann l'Auberge des Temples and the Pavilion d'Indochine. All have pools, gardens and kid-friendly touches. The Majestic Angkor was also recommended for older children (pool but no garden). If you really want to enjoy the temples at your own pace, consider travelling with another family or other adults and taking turns at childcare and temple viewing. That said, seeing the temples through the eyes of a child can be an enriching experience. While I remember the breath-taking grandeur of the temples on our 1992 visit, travelling with my daughter made me appreciate the details.

Amongst our friends, the jungle temple of Ta Prohm seems to be the biggest hit with the kids. Visiting early around 8 or 8.30am will get you there ahead of the tour buses. In Siem Reap, the Butterflies Garden Restaurant is worth a visit. If the butterflies don't keep the kids occupied, chances are the ponds, bench swing and garden will. There's plenty for kids to see at the enclosed Night Market, too, and the juggling cocktail barmen at the fabulous Island Bar in the middle should keep them distracted long enough for you to enjoy a cool drink. Also recommended are the traditional dance shows. The Apsara Theatre (also referred to as 'Angkor Village') has a 6.30-8.00 pm dinner and show — free for toddlers — which our daughter found captivating.

Apsara Theatre (Angkor Village)
Wo Bo Road, Siem Reap.

Auberge Mont Royal d'Angkor
www.auberge-mont-royal.com/web/

Borann l'Auberge des Temples
www.borann.com/

Butterflies Garden Restaurant
8am-10pm Ph 063 761 211 www.butterfliesofangkor.com

Pavilion d'Indochine
www.fr.asiarooms.com/cambodia/siem_reap/pavillion_indochine.html