AsiaLIFE

Going to Banteay Chmar feels like an adventure well before you actually get there. The trip from Siem Reap takes you over unsealed roads into a remote part of Banteay Meanchey Province. Rumours of an overgrown and wild temple, which you can explore by nigh time, are enough to wake the spirit of adventure in most of us. But before you get to play Indiana Jones, there are plenty of daylight activities to do in Banteay Chmar village, and a friendly host family to meet.

Village Homestay

 

The taxi drops you off in Banteay Chmar central, right next to the small and friendly market. Here are several food stalls selling local fare, should you arrive at lunchtime. The food is cheap and basic, but tasty. Upon arriving, you will most likely be greeted by Ponlok, one of the two guides in Banteay Chmar. He will take you to your appointed homestay and introduce you to the family you are going to stay with. The homestays are very comfortable, with a bed, mosquito net and own room provided. The bathrooms are basic, but that is part of the charm of staying in the countryside. After you have settled into your homestay and met the family, take some time to explore the village and its surroundings. Banteay Chmar is a traditional Cambodian village with some hidden gems, such as beautifully built wooden stilt houses or funky hairdressing shops in small wooden huts, in its dusty streets. The villagers are friendly and curious.

The village is part of the community-based ecotourism network (CCBEN). The villagers manage and organise the tourism activities themselves. While you come to Banteay Chmar to see the temple, there are plenty of other activities to keep you busy here for a day or two. Ask your guide about activities in advance, as some need some time to organise. A fun way to get around the village is by oxcart or by tractor. Carting around in one of these unusual modes of transport provides a new perspective on Cambodian village life. It also makes you the star of the village for the day.

Silk and Honey

 

The French NGO Enfants du Mekong has a weaving workshop in the village, which always welcomes visitors. They employ 11 weavers and help support disadvantaged families in the area. Do not miss Les Soieries du Mekong, where the finishing touches are put on silk products. You can purchase beautiful silk scarves, silk flowers and bags, as well as other accessories for a reasonable price. Over 60 weavers participate in this project organised by Les Enfants du Mekong, which specifically aims to help orphans. Most of their products are destined for export to European markets, with some sold locally or in Siem Reap. If you have a sweet tooth, make sure you visit the local beekeepers, who will be happy to show you their bee houses and let you sample some of their natural produce. A large bottle of honey (about one litre) costs US$7. You can be sure that all proceeds go directly to the producer.

Banteay Chmar Temple

 

It’s best to visit the temple in late afternoon. Then the sun is lower and its rays create beautiful light-and-shadow effects on the carvings and ruins – adding to its already eerie atmosphere. Built by Jayarvarman VII (1181-1219), Banteay Chmar is a tribute to his son Indravarman and the leading Cambodian generals who defeated the Chams in a crucial battle. Several detailed carvings depicting these battles can be admired on the walls of the temple. Surrounded by a 1,500-metre long by 900-metre wide moat, the vast temple complex is mostly in ruins. Trees overrun the structures in many places. Beware of mines and stay on well-trodden paths.

Unfortunately, Banteay Chmar has been the victim of relentless lootings, which have deprived the temple of most of its intricate carvings. Only two of the original eight carvings of multi-armed Avalokiteshvaras still adorn the outer gallery. These are breathtaking in the intricacy of their detail. With a little imagination they will give you an idea of the temple’s former splendour.  Banteay Chmar also features towers bearing the rare faces of Avalokiteshvara – which can also be admired at Bayon. Although most of the towers have collapsed, there are still a few towers from which Avalokiteshvara smiles his enigmatic smile.

The Torch-lit dinner

 

The truly special part of a visit to Banteay Chmar, however, is the atmospheric, torch-lit dinner the villagers offer their visitors. Around sunset, an eerie atmosphere sets in. While your hosts prepare a delicious dinner, explore the ruins in the early evening. Its otherworldly atmosphere can make you feel like the first explorer discovering the temple. As the sun set, our guide lit up homemade torches, which emanated a fragrant smell from the different herbs contained within. They also acted as a natural mosquito-repellent, as the little pests did not bother us at all as night fell. Settling down for dinner on mats in the midst of the trees and ruins, with only torches lighting the surroundings, a quiet and serene atmosphere set in.  Dinner consisted of two fresh and copious vegetarian dishes, rice, pickles and local fruit for dessert. If you want to have a beer, or some local rice wine, ask your guide in advance or bring your own, as only drinking water is included in the price of the dinner. Slowly savouring this homemade cooking, soak up the tranquil atmosphere, lie back and admire the torchlight playing on the carvings. Relish the truly unforgettable experience of dining in one of Cambodia’s most ancient and remote temples. You might just give a toast to the ancient Khmers for building these marvels.

Information

 

Community Based Ecotourism Project supported by Agir Pour le Cambodge.
Contact This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it , www.agirpourlecambodge.org.
For bookings and information, tel: 012 237 605.

Getting Yhere

 

Direct buses link Phnom Penh and Siem Reap to Sisophon. You can also catch a taxi from Siem Reap to Sisophon for around 17,000 riel. From Sisophon, local taxis will take you to Banteay Chmar for 15,000 to 20,000 riel. The trip from Sisophon to Banteay Chmar takes from one and a half to two hours, depending on the weather. The condition of the road varies, as parts of the stretch between Siem Reap and Sisophon are being rebuilt. Smooth asphalt alternates with pothole-ridden dust road, but overall the trip is fast and relatively comfortable.

Price

 

Dinner at the temple will set you back around US$10 per person, including temple fee and transport. Homestays cost US$7 per room, and a guide for the day will cost you US$5. Hiring an oxcart for the afternoon costs US$5$ for four people, riding in a tractor US$6 for four people. Bicycles are also available for rent at US$1.50 a day.