AsiaLIFE

While this border town has been much maligned as a place for shady dealing and scams, there are many who have discovered its hidden beauty. At the foothills of the Cardamom Mountains, this area is home to some of the most diverse wildlife in all of Southeast Asia and is a stone's throw from white sand beaches to rival those just over the border. This destination is an undiscovered eco-wonderland. Words by Charis Shafer.

Ask any Cambodian what they think about Koh Kong and they will wax eloquent about the beauty of the place. However, foreigners have long thought this border town too rough and tough to be appealing. The reality is no doubt a bit of both. Certainly, this trip is not for the fussy as just getting there can be a challenge. The effort is worth it though to experience some of Cambodia's richest scenery and stunning wildlife.

A twenty-minute trip from the eastern border of Thailand, it is about an hour-and-a-half from Trat and only six hours from Bangkok. The ferry leaves from Sihanoukville to Koh Kong around 8am and takes around four hours.

The boat drops visitors off at the port and immediately moto drivers will, sometimes forcibly, grab traveller's luggage and throw it onto the trucks going to the Thai border. Simply walk past all the chaos and find a moto to take you to your chosen hotel. There have been reports of some drivers reporting certain guesthouses are closed or not operating. This is because the drivers commonly will get paid a commission to take visitors elsewhere. Be alert and very clear about your chosen destination.

Mountain Oasis

While there are several places to stay in town, by far the most inviting is Oasis Bungalow Resort. The bungalows are secluded with a swimming pool and a tropical garden setting. To reach Oasis from the dock take Street 3 north and follow the signs. It is a one-kilometre drive outside Koh Kong town. The rooms have all the amenities including air- conditioning, cable, DVD player, and an en suite bathroom with hot water. The swimming pool and some rooms overlook the Cardamom mountain range. The restaurant has offerings like hamburgers, cheeseburgers and chips. Thai and Khmer specialties are also available.

The resort's owner Jason is more than helpful and very knowledgeable about the areas around Koh Kong. To hear him speak, the attractions are endless. He has trained local staff to take guests on different treks and tours in and around the Cardamoms. The most popular trips, he says, are simply boat rides along the river that runs along Oasis' property. More adventurous treks can be planned to various islands or to one of the many waterfalls in the area.

The proprietor of The Rainbow Lodge, Janet, was obviously searching for something new. Formerly a barrister in England, she decided, after some soul-searching, to explore the world outside the law. When she came to Koh Kong, she fell in love with the place. She decided to put her energies into opening Koh

Kong's First Eco-lodge

The Rainbow Lodge has seven traditional Khmer style bungalows set on one of the many rivers that cuts through the area. There is a central dining and relaxation area as well as a sun terrace and hammock huts to watch the sunset over the Cardamoms. "The idea is to keep everything as natural as possible," says Janet of her design style. That includes the power sources. The Lodge relies on solar power for electricity. Food is either bought locally or grown on the property. Through her efforts, she is trying to endorse responsible tourism and introduce a novel approach to holidaying in Cambodia.

In addition to the peace and tranquillity the Lodge offers, Janet has sunset cruises down the river, jungle trekking through the wildlife preserve that abuts her property, trips to waterfalls and swimming for the adventurous. Treks are led by a former local forest ranger as guide. One particularly interesting trek is through the protected wildlife reserve to the lovely Ta Tai waterfall. Guests trek one-way for about three hours and then the Lodge's boat comes with lunch and transports them back to the Lodge. If this is too strenuous for visitors, other levels of treks and walks are on offer. For thrill seekers there are rapids to explore just a few kilometres away. A trip to the sea is in the works as it is only 13 kilometres away. Janet also has one family bungalow with two rooms for those visitors with children.

As the River Flows

After settling in your guesthouse, take the time to explore the areas many waterfalls. Many of these are as yet unexplored so take pride in being one of the first to trek them. Make sure you take a guide and stick to established tracks, as there could be some unexploded ordnance in the area. The water flowing from the Cardamom Mountains is the strongest in the rainy season, though just as beautiful shortly after the rains have stopped. In the dry season, some of the smaller falls are just a trickle, but in no less lovely surroundings.

The Ta Tai falls are the nearest to Koh Kong town and easily reached because of their close proximity to the road. The falls are about a 6-metre drop and about 20-30 metres across in a jungle gorge overlooking often foamy rapids. It is possible to reach these by foot, road or boat.

For those seeking something undiscovered and impressive, Koh Por is not to be missed. These falls can only be reached by boat and are flowing all year round. Arrange a boat with the guesthouse. The going rate is around 1,000 baht for four people or 1,500 baht for six or seven for an all day journey. Guesthouses can also organise a boat to see the rare Irrawaddy Dolphins. In this province there is an 80 per cent chance of seeing these fascinating mammals, according to Jason at Oasis.

Beaches and Islands

There are some unexplored beaches and islands within a short distance from Koh Kong proper. These are gems for the intrepid to discover. The nearest and easiest to find is the beach directly across the bridge going to Thailand. Follow the signs to Resort 2000. There is a restaurant and bungalows by the beach.

The beach at Ba Blong can be found by continuing along the same road. Here are seafood shacks and a sandy beach. Koh Kong itself has a beach, but the water is not as clear as at some beaches further out. The island Koh Koh Grao is about a 45-minute boat ride from Koh Kong town and it has several lovely beaches. A boat ride there should be about 1,600 baht. Reportedly, the island has two human skeletons of unknown provenance. Another option is Koh Kong island. This is Cambodia's biggest uninhabited island.

A trip there will cost around 500 baht a person with a minimum of six people. The island has seven beaches most of which are entirely untouched by tourists. The third beach has a charming lagoon and all are white sand beaches. Snorkelling trips can be arranged with various guesthouses.

Treks

One of the reasons why this area is so serene today is because of Koh Kong's unsettling past. The landmines that littered the border between Cambodia and Thailand at one time were what kept people from exploiting the resources of the mountains. Today, many of the guesthouses run trips in and around the Cardamom Mountains.

The Sauna Garden Bar or Neptune Guesthouse can organise motorbike trips and nights out in the Cardamoms. Also in this area is one of Southeast Asia's largest untouched mangrove forests. Many locals are eager to take adventurers on recently created footpaths on the edge of town through the mangroves and to explore the wilds of one of Southeast Asia's most pristine wildernesses.

Out and About in Town

Although no Hong Kong, Koh Kong town has a growing number of expat haunts that provide good food and company during your stay. One of these is the Sunset Bar so called because its location is perfect for viewing the sunset over the river. In classic Khmer style, the bar is a wooden pier built on stilts over the river and there are stools where you can perch with a dollar brew and relax.

Another place with a pub-like atmosphere is Bob's Bar. In cafeteria-style seats complete with chalkboard menu you can order western favourites like pies or sandwiches. There is also some more adventurous fare like pork pumpkin stew and Penang gai curry. Friendly owner Bob is more than happy to offer advice on what to see and where to go in Koh Kong.

Baan Peakmai is a local favourite for Thai and Khmer cuisine and is one of the only proper restaurants in town. It has an extensive vegetarian menu. Pun Pun Restaurant just next to it is also a local expat favourite. Their specialty is beef noodle hot pot soup though they are happy to provide whatever soup ingredients are to your liking. The staff speaks English, though reluctantly. Otto's is a Koh Kong institution. German fare is on offer in this wooden restaurant just off the main route in town. For a drink, try Moto Bar not far from Pun Pun, Hello Bar for fruit shakes, Sauna Bar, Blue Moon or the soon to open JC's.

For an experience, drive further out along the bridge to Thailand and go right to the Rock Garden Restaurant. The best time to go is just an hour before sunset to lounge in a hammock and enjoy a traditional Khmer dinner. To get to Koh Kong's casino, at the Koh Kong International Resort Club, take Street 5 across the bridge towards the international border crossing with Thailand. The resort is about 12 kilometres away.

Currency

Everything in Koh Kong is priced in Thai baht. US$1 = 30 Thai baht.

Getting There

From Phnom Penh taxis cost around US$13 per person or US$85 or more for a private taxi. Perhaps the best option is to go via Sihanoukville. Buses leave from Phnom Penh to Sihanoukville regularly from many locations throughout the city. From Sihanoukville either take a van or taxi along an uneven, but picturesque road or catch a high-speed ferry for US$20. The road requires crossing four river ferries. Though the bridges across these rivers are in construction, they will not be finished for some time yet. The wait for the ferry can vary, so choose this option only if time is of no concern. The high-speed boat from Sihanoukville leaves everyday in the morning so plan accordingly.

Accommodation

Oasis Bungalow Resort
Tel: 092 288 342 / 016 331 556
http://oasisresort.netkhmer.com
Oasis is a lovely family-oriented resort in a garden setting. It is fully equipped with air- conditioned bungalows with a mountain view, swimming pool, restaurant and tour and travel arrangements. At US$20 a night, it is well worth the price.

The Rainbow Lodge
Tel: 012 160 2585
http://greenescape.netkhmer.com
A purpose built eco-lodge situated on a river surrounded by the Cardamom Mountains around 25 kilometres from Koh Kong. Seven traditional style Khmer bungalows form a rainbow around the hill. Rooms are US$30 to US$40, the family room is US$55.

Neptune
Tel: 011 984 512
Neptune is a straightforward guesthouse with clean rooms and cheap beer. Ask about their bike rentals and boat trips. US$3 to US$5 per night.

Asean Hotel
Tel: 012 936 667 / 035 936 667
http://aseanhotel.netkhmer.com
Air-conditioned rooms with en suite bathrooms, laundry service and mini-bar run from US$10 to US$20 a night.

For further information pick up a copy of the free Koh Kong visitor's guide or check the website www.koh-kong.com.