AsiaLIFE

A quiet provincial town, Kampong Thom is slowly emerging as a tourist destination in its own right. Located halfway between Phnom Penh and Siem Reap, it is the perfect stop to break up the journey to Angkor. Words and photos by Virginie Noel.

Although Kampong Thom Province has some important attractions to offer, it has not yet been exposed to mass tourism, preserving its unspoilt and authentic feel. Kampong Thom itself is a typical small Cambodian town, with a pleasant riverside and some beautiful French architecture. One unique feature of the town is its colony of over 700 bats. For a great photo-opportunity, look out for them in the cluster of trees near the provincial government building at around 5.30 pm to 6pm. Catch them flying off into the sunset.

Built in stone

Some quirky landmarks are also worth a mention, such as the statue of an elephant stepping on a tiger  – the town’s emblem. Another interesting statue is the well-preserved statue of the Rearing Lion, from the tenth century, which was brought to Kampong Thom from a jungle temple complex in Preah Vihear.

Built in the twelfth century Wat Kampong Pagoda is another of the town’s highlights. It features, among stupas and shrines, some strange-looking statues of monsters. A mural inside the main sanctuary was painted in 1960 and depicts Norodom Sihanouk surrounded by the world leaders of the time. Kampong Thom also boasts one of the country’s few churches not destroyed by the Khmer Rouge. Designed by Vann Molyvann, it is definitely worth a look.

Isanapura

Located 28km from the town of Kampong Thom in Sambor Prey Kuk village is the ancient temple site of Isanapura. Dating back to the seventh century, this pre-Angkorian city was the capital of the Chenla kingdom.

The three main sites, each consisting of a large temple complex surrounded by double enclosure walls, contain a total of over 280 temples. Most of these are either off-limits or too damaged to be of interest, but several sites are very well-preserved and many of the temples carry beautiful intricate carvings.

The temples all have large central towers surrounded by shrines, gopuras and artificial ponds. Shaded by large trees, the best way to explore the site is by bicycle. Hire a bike and a local guide at the entrance and set off to explore the temples, some of which are held together by large tree roots.

The subject of active conservation efforts, new monuments are still being discovered and excavated around the site. Local communities are involved in safeguarding activities, such as periodic weeding, removing of trees dangerous to the monuments, and installing supports. GTZ is currently working in collaboration with Exotissimo and local communities to develop community-based tourism services in the area. Local guides are available to guide tours around the temples, and bicycles can be rented from villagers.

An interesting addition to the site is the Isanborei crafts hut, located near the entrance. This initiative of the Sambor Prey Kuk Conservation and Development Community aims to support the local community by promoting traditional crafts that are in danger of disappearing due to the increased use of modern tools. The hut exhibits and sells beautifully crafted tools, such as Kruh – baskets made of bamboo and rattan traditionally used for carrying liquids – at very reasonable prices.

After visiting the temples, enjoy a picnic in huts by the river, which is a pleasant 1.5 kilometre walk through forests away from the temple site. Villagers will be happy to take you back to the site in oxcarts if you arrange it in advance.

Around Kampong Thom

South of the town, Phnom Santuk is the most important holy mountain in the province, and comparable with Udong. The 900 steps leading to the top are shaded by trees and boulders all the way up. Your efforts will be rewarded by the spectacular views over the surrounding rice plains. Apart from a modern pagoda, several cave shrines containing sculptures of Buddha can be explored on the hilltop plateau. On the way to Santuk, stop at the village of Samnak to visit the local sculptors. Watch them carve giant Buddha statues out of huge slabs of rock.

The province not only offers impressive archaeological sites such as Sambor Prey Kuk, Prasat Kuk Hak Nokor and many others, but provides glimpses of peaceful village life and beautiful countryside. Endless rice paddies, picturesque rivers, and small sleepy villages are non-assuming, yet quintessential Cambodian sights that make every trip complete. The best way to explore the province is by mountain bike, so get on your bike and explore.

Accommodation

Sambor Village

Due to open in December 2008, this boutique hotel will offer high-standard accommodation while retaining a village atmosphere. The traditional Khmer wooden house, and 20 bungalows, are located in a lush garden, complete with vegetable patch, swimming pool and farm animals. Traditional music at evenings by the pool rounds off the experience of staying in true Khmer-style, without having to forego any home comforts. (US$55 a night). They also organize boat tours and other activities.

Democratic Street, 500 metres north of Tela Station on the riverfront, Tel: 098 698 814 or email This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it


Stung Sen Royal Garden Hotel

This used to be the best hotel in town, but age is starting to take its toll. Its central location makes this an attractive option nevertheless. Clean rooms with TV, hot showers, air con cost US$20.

Street 6, Krom 3th, Village 1st, Kampong Thom, Tel: 012 309 495, 062 961 228.

Kampong Thom Village Hotel

Newer and with more character than Stung Sen Royal Garden, this hotel is less centrally located. Bright clean rooms with all amenities are US$20 per night.

562 Kampong Thom Village. Tel: 062 962 311, 099 456 949.

Tours and activities

Local guides can organise tours to Sambor Prey Kuk and other attractions. Contact Sambor Prey Kuk Community at This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it or call Sokly on 099 761 955 or Pich on 017 552 061.

For more information on GTZ’s Tourism Development Project, contact Ngin Hong at 012 621 515 or This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it .