AsiaLIFE

An area of the country cloaked in mystery, Mondulkiri has a landscape unlike any other in Cambodia. With rolling hills, grasslands, and chilly evenings, this mystical province is well worth the arduous trip. Words by Charis Shafer.

"Oh! Far Away!" Sheery's big eyes widen further when she relays the typical city-dwelling Cambodian's reaction to her decision to move to Mondulkiri. Sheery is the owner of Nature Lodge just outside Sen Monorom. She agrees it is far away. By bus it takes a full-day's journey from Phnom Penh over sometimes treacherous roads that wash out in the wet season. But the province's distance from the capital is part of its appeal.

Home to numerous waterfalls, lush forests and a diverse population, it is also the largest and most sparsely populated province in the country. The novel landscape and the otherworldly feel make it feel a million miles away from the capital.

The Time to Go

This unique province is rapidly evolving. At the moment tourists will find a wealth of activities and things to buy. The distinct climate makes it possible for locals to grow delights like avocadoes and coffee. The rich red soil makes it ideal for growing pepper, rubber and pine trees. It is also rich in gold. Many believe the ideal time to visit Mondulkiri is during the dry season when the roads are rough but not yet slippery from rain. Others disagree.

Though more difficult to reach in the wet season, the verdant forests and the rushing waterfalls make it worth the mud. Whenever tourists visit, they are sure to find cooler temperatures than in the capital or in Siem Reap. The province is especially chilly at night, so be sure to pack a sweater and long trousers.

Waterfalls & Trekking

Some of the main attractions for most visitors are the waterfalls. The most dramatic of these is the Bu Sra waterfall about 37km from the provincial capital Sen Monorom. It costs US$1 to enter the cultural and environmental centre around the falls. Cambodians enjoy picnicking beside the water. There are fruit sellers and small covered tables where you can eat a packed lunch or some local fruits.

Another dramatic waterfall is the Dok Dam waterfall around 25km from Sen Monorom and not far from the Vietnamese border. A trip here can be combined with a trip to see some Bunong weavers. The Kbal Preah waterfalls can be combined with a bicycle trip. A 17km bike ride to the falls, you can visit some Bunong villages on the way. If you want to walk along the falls, try the Romnear Falls, which has a path following it. There are some smaller falls, such as Pulung and Sen Monorom, slightly closer to town.

For a longer adventure, arrange with one of the guesthouses to stay overnight in the forest. There are treks to view elephants or the soon to be finished elephant sanctuary. Guesthouses such as Mahogany and the Green House provide pack lunches, hammocks with mosquito nets or tents for journeys into the great unknown.

Ethnic Majority Bunong

The Bunong hill tribe, also called the Phnong, is Mondulkiri's largest ethnic group, according to Darin Tang. They make up 80 per cent of the population of the province. Darin works for the ICC (International Cooperation Cambodia), which is compiling data about the group. She is also married to a Bunong.

The origins of the Bunong are a mystery. They have been living in the hills and jungles of Mondulkiri for centuries. Their culture and traditions are distinct from Khmer, their dialect is almost entirely distinct from the Khmer language. They have their own music and festivals. One traditional practice is to drink tribal wine from large jugs with straws during weddings. Bride and groom exchange sticky rice and jewellery. The music often includes the playing of gongs.

With a custom of taming wild elephants for work and transportation, they have animist beliefs and a taste for meat. In the past, according to Darin, eating raw meat was an accepted practice. The Bunong also wore clothing sparingly. Now many Bunong are changing. They have adopted traditional Khmer dress and many intermarry with Cambodians. Their traditional housing is also being replaced with a more Khmer-style architecture.

Many Bunong are used as guides, a job for which their knowledge of the forest makes them especially suited. Organisations, like the ICC, are also working on literacy and trying to find alternatives to their traditional form of agriculture. The Bunong villages of interest are all less than 40 km from Sen Monorom. The weaver's house at Dak Dam is well worth the visit. Here visitors can see traditional weavers practicing their craft. Other villages such as Lao Ko, Pu Tang and Pu Lung are also within a short distance.

Seeing Sen Monorom

In town, enjoy the friendly staff and delicious food at Mahogany Guest House. A Nepalese chef cooks up delectable treats. Enjoy a mutton curry or ginger daal with garlic nan. Full breakfasts are also on offer as are pizzas and pastas all for under US$7.

At the Green House, there is European and Khmer fare for slightly less. All are around US$5. For a drink in the evening, a lively handful of people are usually listening to some anachronistically modern music. The French-Khmer owned place is open late by village standards. It also has a computer with internet access for US$2 per hour as well. Not far from town is a place to view the sunset at Phnom Dom Kromom Pagoda. Feel spiritual with the monks as the sun sets.

Back to Nature

Sheery and her husband Sokha met in Koh Chang. She is part-Italian part-Israeli, and he is a Cambodian who lived many years in Thailand. They drove around every province in Cambodia trying to decide where to settle. The last province they made it to was Mondulkiri.

They fell in love with the unique climate and landscape. The mountains and the rivers captured their hearts, as did the people. "It's a very nice community," Sheery says of Mondulkiri's residents. It was a slow start to create something sustainable and lovely. But after three years, they have created an eco-destination worth visiting. Now they have a steady stream of nature-loving regulars and tourists. From the electric greens of August to the red dust of April, the Nature Lodge is a place to feel at one with the land.

The buildings at the Nature Lodge are made from wood ethically obtained. Several families have a logging concession to cut wood for use only within the province. There is also a gas-powered fridge and hot water. Sheery hopes their energy efficient and ecological venture will encourage others. "I'm very positive altogether about the future," she says, adding that many groups are very serious about conservation, as is the local government. "We are hoping to inspire other people!"

Getting There

From Phnom Penh pick-up trucks run daily, all year round from a station on Street 80. It's usual for two people to share the front passenger seat and four the back seat, so it may be a tight squeeze. The back of the truck can be exhilarating, though perilous. Pick-up trucks can be chartered for about US$100. A good option for small groups is to charter a Toyota Camry for US$60.

A direct bus service runs from Phnom Penh to Sen Monorom (US$10) whenever the road is dry - usually September till July. Hua Lian (Tel: 023 223 025 / 012 376 807 / 011 822 219) buses leaves from near Olympic Stadium, Phnom Penh. They stop at Kompong Cham and Snoul. This year, tourists reported that the bus stopped at a large guesthouse just before arriving at Sen Monorom. Guesthouses employees entered the bus and tried very hard to persuade passengers to get off the bus.

In the wet season it is more comfortable to travel to Snoul by bus and then change to a pick-up for the remaining three hours. Pick-ups leave Snoul around midday daily. Although there are not any regular commercial flights to Sen Monorom, M.A.F (Mission Aviation Fellowship) flies a 6-seat light plane, usually twice a week and will carry passengers if not full. The flights are mostly reserved for groups and NGO trips. For more information visit: www.maf.org or call 012 879 426.

Accommodation & Food

Nature Lodge
Tel: 012 230 272
www.naturelodgecambodia.com
Rustic with shared bathrooms, for company and ambience, it cannot be beaten. Separate bungalows each set in their own style cost US$4 and US$5. A dormitory for over four guests is an option for groups at US$2.50 each.

Mahogany Guest House
Tel: 012 870 993
A lovely little guesthouse with attentive staff and unusually delicious food cooked by the Nepalese chef. Rooms are clean and large if lacking style. The friendly staff is full of advice and can arrange tours. Rooms are US$8 to US$10.

Long Vibol Guest House
Tel: 012 944 647, 012 823 054
This pleasant enough guesthouse has no frills. Rooms are very clean and spacious, with hot water showers and TV. Traditional Khmer fare here. Rooms are US$5.

Green House
Tel: 012 190 5659
French, Khmer and English-speaking restaurant and bar. Motorbikes can be rented at US$15 a day for 250cc and US$10 for 100cc. For trips to waterfalls or villages contact Mr. Samnang.