Mention big bikes and most people will probably first think of a Harley Davidson. Pure Americana it might be, but riding a Harley is a great way of touring the back-roads of Cambodia, according to two Australians. Words by Mark Jackson.
“It’s the red Ferrari of bikes,” says Derek Mayes. “Even if it is black.” Together with business partner Murray Heath, Derek established Harley Tours Cambodia eighteen months ago to run customised tours around Cambodia on the king of motorbikes. They offer anything from overnight trips to 14-day tours of the country. Unlike other tours, there is no minimum number of people. “I’m happy to take one person on tour because I like riding,” says Murray. These guys just love their bikes.
Murray’s passion for the Harley Davidson started in 1998 when he was 35. “It was my first mid-life crisis,” he says in typical Aussie deadpan. Not quite sure why he bought his first Harley, a Heritage Softail Classic, all he can remember was “it was just good fun.” Derek’s first experience with a Harley was more dramatic, though short-lived, lasting four minutes. He made the mistake of opening the clutch, was thrown backwards and could barely reach the brakes with his feet. “It was awesome,” he says with his contagious Syd James laugh.
The Thrill of the Ride“It’s the comfort, the sound of the bike, and the power,” says Murray, explaining why a Harley is so special. He has bought five in total. All are available to take on tour, although he sold one to Buddy at Brand Solutions. The noise is something special, as AsiaLIFE Guide discovered when taken on a test drive. “You get quite a lot of looks when you open the clutch,” admits Derek, especially in rural Cambodia. Not that the appeal is just for boys who like to make some noise.
Too heavy for town driving and with insufficient ground clearance for serious off-road driving, Harleys are great for cruising country roads in comfort and with power. “It’s a thrill bike, but with safety,” Derek explains. Sitting behind Derek, on the rear seat with backrest, is a far more comfortable experience than on the back of a Honda Dream or dirt-bike. Make sure you’re holding on tight when that clutch is opened, though. Capable of reaching 100mph, Murray never takes them over 90kph on tour. He also takes a pick-up truck with a spare bike just in case something goes wrong.
“A good dirt-bike rider can handle a Harley without doubt,” assures Murray. However, Derek recommends more caution. “Sit on the back and let us do the work,” he says. “You’ll have much more fun on the back.” For both, Harley Tours is much more hobby than business. You get the sense they just enjoy any excuse for taking the bikes out on a ride. It’s a hobby that can be expensive. That first Harley cost Murray AU$26,000, although he did buy it from a local dealer in Griffith, New South Wales. Since then he has brought bikes in from Australia and Thailand as well as buying one locally.
Buying a HarleyMurray recommends anyone looking to get their hands on a Harley go to Pov at Flying Bikes. “He brings in quite a few Harleys,” he says, “mainly smaller ones.” A second-hand Harley Sportster should cost between US$5,000 and US$10,000. The bigger bikes start at US$15,000. Murray bought a second-hand Softail Classic ’02, two years ago for US$18,000. Alternatively you can bring a bike in from back home. It costs between US$3-US$4,000 to import a Harley from Australia, according to Murray.
Once imported Harleys are equally expensive to maintain. Also, it can be difficult to get parts. Murray recommends letting Bernard at the Bike Shop take care of your Harley. “A good guy,” he knows his Harleys apparently. If it is that fuel-injected adrenaline rush you are after maybe it is best to stick to Derek’s advice. Let Harley Tours take care of you, at least on a trial overnight run, while you find out whether all that investment is really worth it.
One thing the pair agree upon is their favourite Harley – the blue one. An FXD Dyna Wide Glide 2005, it just glides in sixth gear. Red it might not be, but the Ferrari of two-wheels it most certainly is.
An overnight tour costs US$200 per person (exclusive of insurance, which Harley Tours will arrange through Infinity Insurance). They can also take couples as pillion passengers to Kep for US$360 per couple, including rooms. For more information, visit: www.harleycambodia.com, or call 012 948 529.
