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24 Jan 2009 |
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| Over the past few years increasing development in Phnom Penh, Siem Reap and Sihanoukville has opened the way for the growing presence of upscale fashionable boutiques producing high-end garments and accessories. The fledgling fashion sector, though slowly emerging, is setting a high standard for quality goods and attracting creativity, talent plus expertise from around the globe. Michelle Gilkes goes window-shopping.
As a Khmer, Romyda takes particular pride in keeping Phnom Penh as her centre. “Before Khmers used to think anything beautiful of quality must come from abroad like Thailand or Europe,” she says. “Now they know that beautiful things can come from Cambodia.” Ambre’s designs are graceful, beautiful, elegant and varied. You can wear her clothes casually or for a special occasion. You will always look stunning and feel beautiful. Romyda also offers a selection of accessories from exclusively designed jewellery to bags and shoes. Her helpful staff understands style in conjunction with body type. Any small alteration seems to happen before you have even tried on the next dress. House of Silk The increase of mid to high-end tourists discovering Cambodia as a destination spot also brings growing awareness of local boutiques and couturiers. Kellianne Karatau of Jasmine Boutique notes that her boutique experienced a steady 40 percent increase in customers last year compared with 2006 – Romyda reported a similar rise for Ambre. This past year Jasmine experienced a larger jump due to an increase in retail and export sales and new credit card facilities. “I think there is a high standard of design in Cambodia,” says Kelliane. “People from Singapore and Saigon are coming to shop here.” Kellianne first opened Jasmine with partner Cassandra McMillan in 2001. Employing 150 weavers to produce 100 percent hand-woven Cambodian silk of differing grades, Jasmine is the undisputed house of silk wear. “We believe that the silk will stand out by itself,” says Kellianne. “We are trying to keep the tradition of silk weaving alive and passing on that tradition by creating a market.” The luxurious look of a Jasmine gown is hard to match with their use of hand-woven detailing such as smocking, pintuck and frayed ruffle. Heavyweight silk, perfect for cool climates, is used in their classic line that always includes the wrap skirt, overshirt, A-line dresses and petticoat skirt. For warmer climates they have developed a soft silk that doesn’t need dry cleaning. The appeal is a mix of gothic romance, classy urbanity and relaxed sumptuousness. The palettes for each season are often subtle in tone, without the use of too many bright colours. Presently the line is adorned with ‘tomato’ and ‘sidal’ in addition to basic black, white and nickel. Employing German dyes that never fade they have used a colouring effect called dipping. They plan to introduce a new fine dye technique from India called Shibori. A sheer smocked swing coat, silk organza trenchcoat and jacket can be found in this season’s collection along with hand-painted silk items in silver and ice. The next collection, due to come out this month, will include crochet, new painting techniques, satin silks, lace, belts and even precious stone jewellery. The boutique does not tailor make. They use their own standard designs and sizes, which they can make for you in seven to 10 days. “It’s not a cheap product to produce as it is handmade but we want to employ local people and use local skills,” explains Kelliane.In addition to the Phnom Penh branch, Jasmine has one in Siem Reap and exports regionally. Their brand can be found in Brisbane, Melbourne and Perth in Australia, Singapore, Poland and the U.S. The classic couture experience usually reserved for Paris and New York can be found with a visit to Keo. This salon is where Sylvian Lim designs his exclusive couture and prêt-a-porter line with his son, Keo.Sylvain is one of the most impressive examples of a master designer. In his exclusive villa, he sees clients by appointment only. Clean, sophisticated minimalism defines his refined, distinctive and polished style. A Keo garment can look deceptively simple hanging on the rack but once worn, the exact position of pleats and the perfect structure of the outfit display a subtle refinement not easily produced. Keo designs are not simply a reflection of impeccable craftsmanship, but of flawless artistry. He demonstrates a tasteful nuanced finesse where no adornments are necessary. The rule for colour seems to be classic, hushed tones and in design nothing superfluous. The result is effortless grace with the client never having to worry about what she is wearing.“We work like sculptures always looking for the right material before using ‘moulage’ or drapping technique to form the design,” he explains. For his one-of-a-kind creations he sometimes applies ‘lesage’ a handmade embroidery technique that can take up to two weeks to complete. Although at Keo everything is made by Sylvain and his son, they have opened a tailoring shop called Keo Tailor (77A, Sothearos Blvd.) for ordinary tailoring work. In ‘74 this patrician of style left Cambodia to study in Paris and could only return after the fall of the Khmer Rouge.“Though I lost my family I always wanted to return home and participate with my compatriots,” he says. “I was the first Khmer designer and Romyda Keth was the second. We are the only ones.” Only using fabrics found locally, cottons, crêpe and silk are all putty in his hands. “It difficult to find material sometimes but in the past two or three years it has become a lot easier.” Sculptured Jewellery Artists like Sylvian Lim can also be found among masters of decorative accessories. Christine Gauthier of Water Lily Boutique is the creative genius in what can only be referred to as sculptured jewellery. Using ordinary or natural materials such as beads, buttons, suede, copper and nylon wire, Gauthier moulds jewellery evoking the elements of nature that inspire her pieces. Micro-beads assembled become broaches where a miniature garden of flowers, water pads and rice fields reside. Buttons are stacked into a flower blossom ring. Beads and wire are moulded into a necklace of cascading sunrays or waterfall earrings. Details reveal caterpillars, dragonflies and butterflies dancing around small beads of iridescent greens and browns. With Dadaist humour thread bobbins are transformed into a stylish couture handbag, or wide brimmed hat to be envied by any punk-inspired high-fashionista. These special pieces convert the human body into a canvas for her art. Customers are encouraged to explore her work kept on display and hidden away in chest drawers. Although, she has pieces that seem ordinary, she is hardly a simple ‘beader’.“I am like a painter playing with colour depicting nature,” says Christine. She prefers to work with one customer to create a unique piece. She has made exclusive, jewellery for Ambre and runway samples to compliment Eric Raisina’s couture designs. Out of Africa Originally from Madagascar, Eric Raisina works out of his villa boutique in Siem Reap. Having fallen in love with Cambodia eight years ago he has made this country his second home. “There is much about Cambodia that reminds me of my home in Africa and it inspires me,” he says. “I mix African and Asian themes and it really creates a new look.” Eric’s designs are very contemporary with a hint of ethnicity. His clothes are not for the fashion shy – these designs are stunning and bold. Having studied textiles in Paris, Eric mixes Madagascar raffia with Cambodian silk. Using crochet and special textile techniques his fashion expression is sophistication with an edge. His collection of scarves and garments are visually sensational with the added touch of varying textures. Employing different textile techniques he can turn silk into silk-fur, plumes, or crocheted flowers. “I love to use the real Cambodian silk called ‘golden silk’ – it’s not always easy to find but I use it,” he says. “I use my special secret formula to make stiff silk soft.” Eric’s background is in couture. He has sold his special fabric to fashion houses such as Yves Saint Lauren, and original pieces to Christian Lacroix. “I have a line where customers can buy off the rack but it’s sill by appointment only and my dresses are completely exclusive,” he says. “I am not doing mass market, I don’t want to push a line and do 100 pieces because there are so many details and everything takes time.” He produces one collection a year from his boutique workshop outside of Siem Reap employing 25 people. His new collection – called ‘A Thousand Flowers’ – will highlight crochet flowers a variation on his previous line. He also has a small range of men’s clothing.The outcome of these varied textile techniques are brilliant showpieces where one scarf can feature silk crochet and fur for a luxurious feel and high-fashion look. His scarves and garments can be found in the Amansara Hotel in Siem Reap, and Couleurs D’Asie in Phnom Penh.
Jasmine Keo Water Lily Eric Raisina
Off the Rack Song Kambuja Threads Couleurs D’Asie
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