The idea of a boat trip on the river usually sits somewhere at the bottom of those ‘Ten things to do in Phnom Penh’ lists. But with the hot season’s relentless heat blazing the city, spending time on water suddenly becomes a very appealing proposition. We put on our captain’s hat and checked out some of the boats on offer. All hands on deck! Words by Johan Smits.
A popular way of hitting the river is hiring one of the many tourist boats moored along the riverfront, near Street 136. Made of wood and often weather-beaten, they are a local and colourful way to experience that nautical feeling without the risk of seasickness or monster tsunamis – Phnom Penh’s waterways are very calm. With the city being located at the confluence of three rivers, there’s enough choice and variation to keep you happy for a while, whether you sail up the Tonle Sap, along the Mekong or down the Bassac.
Usually there is a fair range of boats available at different sizes according to how large your party is. Depending on your skills, prices can be negotiated but they all seem fairly similar across the board. One of the many on offer is Bopha Angkor Tour, a family owned business with three boats in different sizes ranging from small (less than ten people) via medium (less than twenty-five) to large (up to ninety people on three decks). Like most of the boats for hire, you can customise your programme, whether you want a bring-your-own-booze-and-food sunset cruise or a fully catered half-day excursion to one of the nearby islands. The boats of Bopha Angkor Tour are very clean and comfortable, equipped with parasols and easy chairs on the upper deck, and made homely with lots of potted plants and flowers. Our captain’s daughter spoke good English and helpfully guided us to some of the silk weaving families on Mekong Island.
A more exclusive way of enjoying Phnom Penh’s rivers is to ride on some of the foreign-owned boats that offer high end cruises. Paneman owns a 27 metre-long boat that has been serving customers in Siem Reap for over two years as part of a wider Ecotourism concept. When the level of the water in the Tonle Sap Lake becomes too low – from March to July – they bring the boat over to the capital. With its precious waxed wood, this boat exudes an atmosphere of luxury and can accommodate about twenty-five people. The lower deck has a bar and toilet – usually in that order – and if necessary, one cabin can be arranged for overnight trips. In the latter case, more people can also sleep on mattresses on the floor under mosquito nets. Here too you can completely customise your needs, from short sunset trips to a journey of several days. The company can arrange food and drinks or you can bring your own.
At 16.5 metres, the Mekong Dolphin is smaller than Paneman’s boat, but it is available for charter in Phnom Penh all year round. A typical Mekong river boat made of koki wood, it has a regular clientele of ambassadors, politicians and corporate customers. This boat is designed for high-end services. The lower deck has two air-conditioned cabins each with their own bathroom, and an additional half a dozen people can be laid to rest, so to speak, in hammocks on the upper and rear decks. Again, everything can be customised, either with full catering by the crew or bring your own food and drinks. Their most popular trips are the sunset cruises where the Mekong Dolphin sails up towards silk island, past the floating villages. However the British and Australian owners can arrange overnight trips to Kampong Chhnang and on towards Kratie.
Bringing boating to another level, the recently launched Kanika is the only luxury cruising catamaran for hire in town. Built in 2004 on Mekong Island by Khmer craftsmen using traditional tools and designed by a leading Cambodian architect, the 24 metre-long Kanika has no less than five decks and can comfortably hold up to 100 people. Resting on different hulls and with a very low centre of gravity, the boat rests very stably on the water. In essence a floating restaurant, this luxurious boat is also available for charter with special deals for full or half days.
Originally the owners were targeting visiting tourists but, perhaps reflecting the global downturn, they have changed their emphasis to providing functions, cocktail receptions, birthday parties etc. for high-end hotels, tour operators and local businesses. They will still be running regular sunset and dinner cruises but only two to three times per week. Future plans include regular trips to Mekong Island with a photographic workshop by AsiaLIFE Guide photographer Nathan Horton, and the purchase of jetskis, windsurfing equipment and kayaks whereby the Kanika will provide its customers with ‘watersport days.’ Also in the pipeline are monthly Full Moon party cruises with a DJ, food and drinks. Ahoy!
Information
Prices are wholly dependent on the customers’ needs. Contact your local boat for pricing details.
Bopha Angkor Tour, Tel: 092 665 774
Kanika: 089 848 959 / 012 848 802 /
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Mekong Dolphin: 012 633 257
Paneman, Tel: 012 576 878 / 012 186 9386
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