AsiaLIFE

Kate Liana takes a licking and keeps cool as ice cream wars heat up in the capital.

Chill
Creamy, rich and silky, this homemade ice cream stands out for its texture. The best chocolate of all the contenders, it was dark and earthy like a melted truffle. Rich and not too sweet, it offered a more sophisticated, complex flavour while still remaining firmly in classic chocolate territory. The green tea was nicely balanced – sweet but with the slight bitterness of tea. The pistachio and hazelnut had a strong, nutty flavour. Another standout, the mint chocolate was sweet and fresh, and not overly cloying as can be the case. With a new sundae special on offer every day and flower-shaped ice cream cakes available, it’s easy to mix and match.
US$1.40 for 1 scoop.
219 Sisowath Quay

Karem
Another of the heavy hitters in town, Karem supplies many places in Phnom Penh. This was my favourite vanilla, a tad sweet but with a fabulous vanilla bean flavour with tiny flecks of black seed. There was a slight chemical aftertaste but otherwise it's as vanilla as it gets. The chocolate gave a trip down memory lane – just like a chocolate fudge brownie with a lovely rich, deep chocolate taste. Unfortunately the texture was hard and chewy. For a little bit of adventure, try the durian ice cream. The rich, heady funk of durian was nicely tempered by the sweetness in the ice cream. However, the taste stayed in my mouth for hours after eating.
US$2 for 2 scoops
Found at: The Shop, 39 Street 240; and Cafe Sentiment, corner of Street 63 and 178

Swensen's
If you want a snug fit for those fishermen pants, head to Swensen's for The Earthquake. Eight flavours of your choice are heaped with chocolate sauce, strawberries, lemon syrup, nuts and whipped cream into a towering monstrosity dotted with maraschino cherries. Was "volcano" perhaps the word they were looking for? The blueberry cobbler, mocha almond fudge, cookies & cream and chocolate peanut butter cup were all tasty and sweet. Though lacking the complex flavour of more gourmet offerings, this was good, solid, stuff-you-grew-up-with ice cream with creamy texture. However, after a few minutes the whole thing devolved into a soupy mess and the flavours ran together, so bring eight friends or eat fast.
US$7.90 for The Earthquake
Found at: Pencil Mall, Sorya Mall

New Zealand Natural
Found in supermarkets and shops, Fresco also offers this treat from way down under. I couldn't resist the hokey pokey, a vanilla base with toffee and pieces of honeycomb. The texture was poor – grainy and almost powdery, but that may have been due to improper storage. Aside from that, the honey flavour came through well, and it was a pleasant difference from the overwhelming sugar taste of most ice cream. The cookies & cream had a great milky-sweetness, with the cookies tasting freshly baked and chewy. Smooth and creamy, this had a much better texture than the hokey pokey. Overall good, interesting flavours, just fix that freezer!
US$2 for 1 scoop.
Found at: Fresco, 363 Sisowath Quay

Snow's Yoghurt
Poor little Snow's. It's tough competing with the big boys, especially when your raison d'etre is to offer something healthy. However, since when has an ice cream been healthy! Don't spend too long trying to decide between the green apple, or "original" flavour, since any difference is marginal. At first I couldn't put my finger on the familiar flavour in the original, then it hit me – sour milk. Green apple had the same sour taste. Both tasted strongly of artificial sweetener. Fresh fruit, gummy animals, M&Ms, letters, stars, hearts, and pink chocolate chip toppings were all forlorn efforts to dress this thing up.
US$3.15 for a large with many toppings
Found at: Sorya Mall

K'NYAY
Ginger lovers:,your spiritual home is here. The coconut and ginger ice cream was creamy and sweet, but with the sharp bite of ginger. Those wanting a big bowl of comfort will not be soothed, however if you want excitement on the tongue look no further. The coconut is rich and mellow, and makes a good combination with the ginger. The texture was a bit icy, but not overly so. The cherry almond is a more mellow affair. Sweet, milky and pleasantly nutty, the slivered almonds were a nice touch though the cherries were frozen solid. Chef Run creates the flavours, which are outsourced to Bong Karem to make in quantity for the restaurant.
US$1 for 1 scoop
Located: 25 Suramarit Boulevard (near Independence Monument)