AsiaLIFE

With rooftop restaurants and bars on the rise, Mai Lynn Miller Nguyen heads up to dine and drink under the stars. Photos by James Grant.

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Phnom Penh is in high spirits. Dining alfresco always has its appeal, but a recent surge in rooftop establishments is bringing the city to new levels. As old favourites are joined by novel ventures, there’s a rooftop with an ambience to suit everyone. Here are a few of our favourites.

Great Heights
Since opening its doors in 1993, The Foreign Correspondent’s Club (FCC) has ruled the rooftop scene. A pit stop on every tourist’s itinerary, The FCC remains a classic haunt for locals, particularly during the ever-popular happy hour. Arrive early to grab one of the prized stools along the railing, the prime spot for watching the onset of dusk over the Tonle Sap River. Sip a fruity, white Sangria (US$2.50) and nibble on a medley of three grazing plates (US$11) while enjoying the lively environment. The wood fired vegetable Moussaka (US$11) is a standout from the extensive menu. An ongoing musical programme presents the occasional performance, with Celtic, gypsy jazz, and rock concerts as previous line-ups.
The FCC, 363 Sisowath Quay, Tel: 023 724 014, Open daily 6am to 12pm.

Modern on High
Riverfront boutique hotel The Quay is home to trendy rooftop restaurant and bar Chow. Part of the FCC group, Chow’s atmosphere takes a distinct turn from its counterpart up the road. A more intimate, modern space, the scarce tables fill with hotel guests and hip locals during brunch, lunchtimes and evenings. The cocktail list is one of the most creative in town, presenting sublime combinations of fine alcohol, fresh fruit juices and assorted mixers. Asian-inspired eats include ‘Chow Bites’ small plates, such as rock lobster rolls and dipping sauce (US$4.50), whereas noodles, salads, and curries make up the main courses. Biweekly 7eleven parties draw a fun-loving crowd, prone to taking dips in the petite pool.
Chow at The Quay Hotel, 277 Sisowath Quay, Tel: 023 224 894, Open daily from 8am to 10.30pm.

Glimpse of the Past
Perched on the verge of the roof, the upper terrace of Van’s Restaurant feels like a secret hideaway. Beyond the elegant main dining room and balcony, patronised by well heeled Cambodians and expats, the final flight of stairs leads to less-frequented nook. A few stools and chairs are placed along the balustrade, positioned to look out onto the post office square, a bastion of colonial architecture. Ordering can be requested for the rooftop, with Kir Royale (US$12) and Brandy Alexander (US$5) as fitting cocktails for the exquisite setting. Gourmet French cuisine encompasses scallops Saint Jacques à la Normande (US$13) and duck raviolis with white truffles (US$13).
Van’s Restaurant, 5 Street 102, Tel: 023 722 067, Open daily from 11.30am to 2pm, 5pm to 11pm.

Panoramic Pizza
Launched as the Frangipania Pizzeria and Bar in January, the rooftop of the Bougainvillier Hotel is the latest to join the elevated dining movement. Potted plants, streetlamps, and a number of wooden tables make for a simple yet charming outdoor space, and an air-conditioned area is currently being constructed. Until a lift is installed, as promised by staff, you’ll have to climb a few stairs—which will balance out the pizza served up top. If it’s French food you fancy, the foie gras trio (US$14.50) or entrecôte (US$15) are among the choices on offer, while the Bougainvillier signature cocktail (US$6.50), with champagne, cognac, and Grand Marnier, is a worthy accompaniment.
Frangipania at Bougainvillier Hotel, 277G Sisowath Quay, Tel: 023 220 528, Open daily from 11am to 10.30pm.

An Open Oasis
Though The Tamarind rooftop garden doesn’t offer much by way of a view, the delightful space is an attraction in itself. Those in the know head straight to the top where a variety of lush foliage and cabanas strewn with cushions conjure up an exotic refuge. The menu features a mélange of Mediterranean, Middle Eastern, and Cambodian dishes. To sample a range of tapas, try the Mezze Libanais platter (US$5.50), particularly for the tasty feta and spinach filo rolls. Chicken and dried plum tagine (US$7.75) is a suggested main to follow. The long tables draw families and convivial groups of friends, while the romantic tables for two are favoured for first dates.
The Tamarind, 31 Street 240, Tel: 012 830 139, Open daily from 11am to 11pm.

Island in the Sky
At The Local, you might be expected to catch sight of the sea, rather than the Russian Market neighbourhood surroundings. The thatched roof, bamboo benches, and coconut lanterns create a mellow, beachside mood, which makes clambering up four stories worthwhile. Though the coast is nowhere in sight, The Local affords a rolling outlook of the rapidly changing city and some brilliant sunsets to the west. Take in the view over a Corona (US$3), or if you’re looking to rev up for the night, a Mekong Bucket (US$4). A pool table provides further diversion. Go on Tight Arse Tuesdays for US$4 menu items and US$3 barbeque, as well as an all-day happy hour.
The Local, 39C Street 454, Tel: 068 891 677, Open daily from 7.30am to 11pm.

Moonstruck
For the most stunning vistas of the riverside, recently opened Le Moon Terrace is a major contender. With an open railing, there’s little obstruction to a 180-degree view across the river, along to the esplanade and across to Wat Ounalom. Time your visit for evening rush hour and you can see the craziness unfold beneath you. One of the larger rooftop spaces, seats and sofas are scattered throughout for lounging. A glass of Khmer Happiness (US$4.50), consisting of Sraa Khmer, melon syrup, and fresh lemon juice, is an apt way to toast the evening. When night falls and the bar’s namesake begins to shine above, house music and illuminated tables create a lounge vibe.
Le Moon Terrace at Amanjaya Hotel, 1 Street 154 at Sisowath Quay, Tel: 023 214 747, Open daily from 5pm to 1am.

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