Taking the Healthy Route

Friday, 27 February 2009 06:42
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From Asian to Greek, and organic to mayonnaise, several of Phnom Penh’s cafés and restaurants offer delectable green dishes that help you stick to a healthy lifestyle. Nora Lindstrom tucks in.

Pacharan, 389 Sisowath Quay
It’s better in Spanish. Even the word ensalada sounds better than your English salad and the green dishes at Pacharan are without doubt some of the best in town. The seafood ensalada (US$10.25) is a tasty, hot mix of squid, mussels, and crayfish with a fresh lollo rosso and rocket mixed salad on the side. Alternatively, the fresh fish in the tuna and artichoke salad (US$10.50) is seared to perfection. Those who prepare their salad more tapas-sized should opt for the grilled goat’s cheese salad (US$6).

Khmer Surin, 9 Street 57
The menu at Khmer Surin features Asian-style salads including som tam, laab and yam. The som tam, or papaya salad (US$2.50), is small for the price, though it is sold as a starter. Incredibly hot, this will either make or break the dish depending on your ability to tolerate chilli. The catfish laab (US$6), traditionally eaten with sticky rice, looks interesting but fails to impress as the minced fish mix is full of bones. The traditional minced meat version might be more appealing, but as with the som tam, beware of the chilli. Some of the salads are also available in vegetarian versions.

Fizz, 42 Street 178
Lime green Fizz serves a handful of inventive Asian salads using basic local ingredients at reasonable prices. The papaya salad at US$2 is a good size and tasty without being too spicy. It becomes rather soggy towards the end of the meal and the salty crabs are an unnecessary addition as they are not peeled and difficult to eat. A more appealing option is the Chinese broccoli salad (US$2.75), with chicken and large amounts of garlic and shallots. Served with a vinaigrette, this represents good value for money. Unfortunately the service was unforgivably slow given that the place was all but empty.

The Garden Centre Café, 60-61 Street 108
Offering a wide choice of bases, salads at the Garden Centre start from around US$5 for a full portion, with most doubling up as side dishes. At US$6.50, the vegetarian salad is a monster of a plate. Choose between a mayonnaise-heavy meal with coleslaw and potato salad, or a lighter variation featuring avocado, pasta and pineapple. Regardless of which one you opt for, your plate will be full, as a range of vegetables and cheese are added, and a bread roll and pickled vegetables are served on the side. It certainly fills you up – in fact, you’ve done well if you manage to finish it all.

The Shop, 39 Street 240
Without doubt one of the places to be seen in Phnom Penh, The Shop draws a crowd every lunchtime. The menu offers a handful of salads in small and medium sizes for US$3.50-US$5.50. Despite looking appetising, they fail to astonish. The beetroot, feta, apple and walnut salad is made of excellent ingredients, but the lack of dressing means the salad never quite comes together as a whole. The baby potato salad is saved by the blue-cheese dressing, while the roasted pumpkin in the eponymous salad is somewhat dry. However, all are tasty and filling and this is certainly one of the most popular options for expats looking for a healthy lunch.

Java Café, 56 Sihanouk Blvd.
Both the lunch and dinner menu at Java offer a choice of eight salads for US$3.50-US$4.75, with half-portions available at half-price. The tuna and beans salad (US$4.50) is a colourful bowl of greens, fish, egg and pulses that is perfect for a light but filling lunch, but beware of the olives as they are not necessarily pitted. The garden salad (US$3.75) has crisp, fresh vegetables. Spruce it up with some extra smoked salmon for an additional US$1.50). The salads come in attractive bowls that are great for mixing the ingredients, but have a tendency to topple over.

Nature and Sea, Cnr, Streets 51 & 278 (top floor)
Brandishing itself as a promoter of health foods and organic produce, Nature and Sea offers a variety of salads created from a base of mixed greens. Choose between four different cheeses and three types of meat to create your very own dish (US$2 to US$6.50). All come with fresh bread, a pungent balsamic vinaigrette and Dijon mustard dressing, thankfully served on the side. The beetroot and goat’s cheese salad (US$4.80) looks appetising and the vegetables are fresh and crunchy, though the onion leaves a strong aftertaste.

Café Living Room, 9 Street 306
Long overdue for a revamp of the menu, this popular café nevertheless does a decent job on the salad-side. The Caesar Salad (US$4/US$4.50), featuring parmesan shavings, croutons and crispy bacon on a bed of iceberg and classic lettuce, is crunchy and fresh, though not filling. The Italian salad (US$4/US$4.50) on the other hand, with roasted vegetables, tuna, anchovy, eggs and lettuce is a delicious full meal. Unless you’re keen on vinegar, you might want to ask for the wine vinaigrette to be served separately. All salads are served with fresh bread, and there is a choice of four home-made dressings.

Boddhi Tree Umma, 50 Street 113
For great, value-for-money salads look no further. The green plates, available with and without meat, are made using organic produce wherever possible (US$3-US$5). The grilled artichoke and baby potato salad (US$4.50) is a fantastic mix, though one of the lettuce varieties used has a bitter, overpowering taste. The beetroot and Asian pear salad (US$4.25) is a less conventional dish, but the flavours go together surprisingly well. All salads come with garlic bread on the side. Located opposite Tuol Sleng, the place can be packed by tourists during the day making for slow service, but as Umma stays open until 9pm, there is no reason not to pop back later for your fix of greens.

Madeleine’s, 19C Street 228
Pretty in pink, the light and airy feel of this café makes it the perfect setting for a pleasant and light organic lunch. “If it’s not organic, and if it’s not fresh, I don’t buy it,” says its owner Karen. The menu varies slightly according to availability, but at least you know everything on your plate is top quality.  There is also no chance of you getting bored with the ever-changing selection. Salads cost around US$4.50-US$6.50 depending on size and ingredients. The Greek salad is presented with organic mint and parsley giving it an extra bolt from Zeus. The beetroot, green bean and cheddar salad also features cottage cheese and lettuce creating an appealing and tasty whole. Don’t forget to grab a Madeleine cake for afters.

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