AsiaLIFE

Despite having the longest happy hour in the Penh, it is the high quality of the food that draws expats to Annam. Craig Gerard sat down with owner Somasundaram Jayamohanram on the occasion of the Indian restaurant’s second anniversary.

Somasundaram Jayamohanram, or Mohanram to his friends, pauses, pondering what was missing from Phnom Penh’s Indian restaurants in 2007. He has just explained this missing piece was his motivation for opening Annam. After a minute he finds it – ambience. This is why Annam has been such a hit with the Penh’s expats. Mohanram has succeeded in creating a relaxing atmosphere at Annam. The lush green garden adjacent to the outdoor dining area provides a tranquil setting to enjoy some spicy food. Indoors, air-conditioning cools sunny yellow walls and a large screen alternates between Indian music videos and cricket matches. An enclosed room with padded low walls is the dedicated kids area, ensuring this to be a favourite for families. Together with the free WiFi, and the all-day, two-for-one draught Angkor happy hour, Annam has become a place to take your time and relax – the goal Mohanram had from day one.

Khmer Taste for Indian

Much has changed in the two years since Annam first burst on the Phnom Penh restaurant scene. At the time, it was the only Indian restaurant owned by an Indian, and the clientele was strictly barang expats, according to Mohanram. However, over the past year Indian food has become more and more popular with Khmers, something for which Mohanram must take some credit. Through food tasting promotions, he has been exposed a small, but faithful group of Cambodians to Indian food. “Most Khmers are under the impression that Indian food is too spicy, which is not true,” he explains. “In fact, most Thai food is more spicy than Indian food.”

Mohanram claims to have tried all the local dishes throughout Southeast Asia. “Food is my passion,” he says. The goal of reaching more locals is part of the restaurant’s business strategy for the coming year. In the past six to eight months, Annam has seen an increase in Khmer customers. Mohanram estimates that Cambodians make up about 15 percent of his clientele, a number he hopes to see increase.

Diverse Cuisine

“Indian food is as diverse as our country, he says. “There is something for everyone.” Annam features both northern and southern Indian cuisine, setting it apart from other Indian restaurants in the capital. This provides more variety for customers.The open kitchen also sets the restaurant apart from its neighbours. You can watch as the four exclusive chefs prepare your meal, each specialising in a particular genre of Indian cuisine. They are so specialised, that if the curry chef is absent for a day, the tandoor chef cannot substitute. Instead the restaurant goes without curry for the day. “It is a strength and a weakness,” admits Mohanram, but he insists this keeps the food authentic. Two chefs are from northern India, and two are from the south.

The delicately spiced tandoori chicken may be one of the best deals on the menu at US$6 for an entire chicken. However, you should not miss the full flavoured rich curries, such as the kheem mutter (US$7.50), which pairs nicely with the garlic naan. If the fire is too much, cool it down with a sweet yoghurt lassi. Spicy gosht vindaloo (US$8) with jasmine rice is also a favourite combination.

Annam does a lot of take away orders, especially when the evening rains come. In the hopes of reducing waste, the take away orders are placed in sealed foil bags instead of large plastic containers. While the orders do arrive at your door piping hot, call-in diners miss out on the ambience Mohanram has worked hard to create. The large menu is best enjoyed while relaxing with friends and socialising over a beer or two. Why not? The second one is always free.

Annam, 1C Street 282