AsiaLIFE

Despite his Hollywood looks and Austrian origins, NagaWorld’s executive chef Jacob Angerer, has a distinctly French culinary appreciation. Words by Mark Jackson.

“Goose liver,” says John Travolta doppelganger, Jacob Angerer, sitting in his Le Gourmet Restaurant. Despite possessing looks that would make any Pulp Fiction fancy dress competition a formality, the nickname of NagaWorld’s executive chef owes more to Hong Kong than Hollywood. Given to him, because of his passion for working with the richest of foie gras, it was clearly well-chosen.

“It has a distinctive taste and texture,” he explains. “You can play around with it, using different terrines and fruits.” The tasting menu he has prepared for us demonstrates the flexibility of his beloved liver. A terrine served with dried cranberries; pan-fried with port and apple; and finally an espuma with a touch of truffle oil. The final variation reveals his second culinary passion, experimenting with frothy sauces (espuma) whether cold as with the goose liver or hot as in our main course – halibut with wild asparagus and a muscat espuma sauce.

Judging from this tasting, this most innovative of chefs is set to be a big hit with the Penh’s  gourmands. Although the first espuma was a tad bitter for our tastes, the pan-fried liver did literally melt away in the mouth. However, the halibut gently pan-fried, as all quality fish should be, was the stand out dish. Flaking off the fork, the delicate fish was perfectly complimented by the light sauce and al dente asparagus. Jacob is keen to use only the best and freshest ingredients – wild asparagus is in season now.

Trained in his native Austria and Switzerland, and having worked for 18 years as a chef in many of Asia’s top hotels, the 43-year-old chef has not found adjusting to Cambodia as smooth as his espuma. “The most important thing in Cambodia is to improve hygiene,” he says echoing an opinion expressed by many of the top chefs and restaurateurs in town. He identifies the food suppliers as the major problem. First, ‘though, he is putting his own house in order. All NagaWorld’s food handlers have stool and blood checks and the casino is working towards typhoid jabs and x-rays for tuberculosis for employees. “I want to implement the [hygienic] systems and then force the suppliers to implement them,” Jacob explains. Ultimately he sees a chef’s association as the best way of ensuring food and hygiene quality in the capital’s restaurants.

Being in charge of 280 staff and running seven food and beverage outlets in Phnom Penh’s only casino, Jacob certainly carries some weight. “We have the highest turnover in food and beverage in Cambodia,” he claims. “In the first quarter this year our revenue more than doubled.” This offers the young chef certain advantages other chefs could only dream off. He can indulge in lavish ingredients, such as his beloved goose liver, for the casino’s showpiece French restaurant, as it is only a tiny fraction of his overall budget. Opposite the Aristocrat cigar bar on the casino’s first floor, Le Gourmet is clearly aimed at Cambodia’s spending class. “Ours is a traditional concept of presenting French cuisine,” he says. “There’s a smaller menu with daily specialities, such as the wild asparagus.”

Despite the downturn created by the global recession, Jacob is confident there is a market for this top-end cuisine, albeit a limited one. “Few restaurants are providing a very good quality, but the number of people spending a lot of money is limited.” In the long term Jacob wants to open a small restaurant under his own supervision, but not with him cooking every day. Rest assured there will be goose liver on the menu. For now, seven months into his Cambodian adventure, Jacob is perfectly happy, despite the demanding standards he clearly sets himself. “My career goal is to accomplish a certain perfection in my department and then to move to the next assignment.”  

Le Gourmet will be holding a goose liver fortnight from Jun. 24 to Jul. 7, coinciding with the Austrian chef’s birthday on Jun. 21. Jacob will celebrate the day itself with some friends in Kuala Lumpur, where he worked as a chef for several years. The theme of his party? You’ve guessed it. No grease on the menu, just the choicest of goose liver.  

Le Gourmet, NagaWorld, Hun Sen Park, Tel: 023 228 822.