AsiaLIFE

Lau Two, the Al Pacino of Asia and chef at Singapore Kitchen, may not know who his Hollywood doppelganger is, but he certainly knows Singaporean food. Nora Lindstrom sits down for a chat with Phnom Penh’s Scarface.

For a small guy, the Straits’ born chef is a regular spitfire. Looking precisely how Al Pacino would if he were Asian, the 65-year-old father of three, only got married some five years ago. Like his Hollywood double he is a workaholic. Lau Two spends 10 to 12 hours each day at his restaurant. Keen to cook with the freshest ingredients, he personally goes to the market up to four times a day. Allegedly, the only time he ever takes a holiday is during Chinese New Year.

Another trait he shares with his more famous lookalike is that he doesn’t mince his words. “I was tricked into coming to Cambodia,” Lau Two says. “I was told by a friend that there were lots of opportunities here for eateries.” So he packed up his restaurant in China and relocated to the Penh. “But the location of the first Singapore Kitchen on Monivong Boulevard was not good. There was no parking, and I didn’t make any money,” he says. Concluding that his friend was wrong, Lau Two closed the first Singapore Kitchen and returned to his native city-state.

The Godfather II

So why is he back? “I got a second call from my friend,” he admits. This time around, however, with improved premises, business is booming. “We’re meant to open at 10am, but customers come at nine already. Many people who come for lunch return for dinner as well. Even the Singaporean Ambassador eats here,” he says. Expanding upon the only thing he was taught by his street vendor father, Lau Two serves 1960s style Singaporean street hawker food in a basic but pleasant setting. “I can’t think beyond Singaporean food, it’s so unique,” he says.

Singaporean Hawker Food

Like the population of his home country, Singaporean cuisine is a fusion of several traditions, including Chinese, Balinese, Malaysian and Indonesian. One of the most popular dishes is Hainanese chicken rice (US$3), in which a small chicken is marinated through a special process to make the meat ‘odourless’ as well as very tender and smooth.

Oyster omelettes (US$5), another typical Singaporean dish are also served, though Lau Two laments the small size of Cambodian oysters. Other popular and tasty choices include seafood laksa (US$3), Hokkien fried prawn noodles (US$3), fried carrot cake (US$2.50) as well as charcoal steamboats of various kinds. To help the customer navigate the extensive menu, there are little thumbs up-signs next to the most sought-after dishes. Chilli crab Singaporean style can also be had, but must be pre-ordered.

Lau Two is said to be famous in Singapore for his noodles. “He does them just the way my father likes them,” a friend and regular customer said in praise. The chef himself admits to being a fish man, and is planning on adding some new dishes on the menu to reflect this. Like customary street grub, the food at Singapore Kitchen is delicious no-nonsense fare, though with a big difference – it’s clean, hygienic and made only with fresh ingredients. The restaurant itself is set up like a Chinese guesthouse, with regular seating as well as a private room on the ground floor, while the mezzanine offers Japanese style seating on the floor and is great for larger private parties.

In addition to Lau Two, some 15 staff work at the restaurant, including two local chefs who prepare the Khmer dishes that are also featured on the menu. Singapore Kitchen further offers catering at various functions, such as US$6 all-you-can-eat buffets, as well as home and office delivery. “I make a bit of money now, so I’m a happy man.” Lau Two concludes on his re-opened restaurant, before dashing off to the market to re-stock on fresh vegetables.

Singapore Kitchen, 110CD, Street 360. Tel: 092 201 304, 017 821 480