Kate Liana takes a ride to the riverside to one of the long-time stalwarts, where Werner Inauen has just taken the helm.
Riverside Bistro is one of the first and oldest restaurants on the riverside, and fully reaps the benefits of its experience. The popular restaurant enjoys a thriving tourist trade. Indeed afternoons see the large patio space packed with tourists sipping Angkor and thumbing through guidebooks. In the evenings, it's a popular drinking spot for locals, many who make it one of their regular haunts.
In an effort to raise the culinary bar, owner Andreas Stanke has brought in Werner Inauen, a Swiss chef with over 30 years experience to ramp up the kitchen. Prior to this Werner worked in Vietnam where he oversaw a floating hotel that ran between Siem Reap and Saigon, and a five-star hotel in Saigon. The long-time chef is quick to admit they are in a crowded market, with new restaurants opening every day. He's determined to enhance the service, food and experience, yet still retain the true essence that has made Riverside Bistro so popular. "We need to make this place more exciting, more of a destination," he says. "The location is perfect, and we need to do more with it."
Werner began cooking when he was 16, as his uncle and father were both chefs. At 23 he left his homeland and has since worked in countries all over the world. It was his desire for new experiences that made him choose Cambodia. “There is room to grow here, it’s still very undeveloped.” It’s that desire to put one’s mark on a place that draws many people here. He also lists the people and countryside here as a big draw as well. Similarly, he was drawn specifically to Riverside Bistro because of the atmosphere. “There was something special about this place, and I saw a lot of potential. It’s amazing, just look around,” he says, sweeping his arms around the large, cavernous space.
Neon signs outside the restaurant give a festive, Vegas-style vibe, while inside the décor gets eclectic. Murals depicting Khmer folk-tales line the walls, under high arches. Werner explains that the building, with spacious high ceilings, is over 100 years old – chandeliers and various antiques adorn the interior.
Usually crowded with drinkers and dinners alike, the place a good buzz. Music is another aspect that sets Riverside apart, offering a live band Wednesday through Sunday. On Monday nights they feature an open mic, where anyone can jump on stage and get behind the keyboard or a guitar and belt out a tune or two.
Amid all this activity, the food is still the star attraction. In an effort to appeal to their solid tourist crowd, they will offer classic, home-cooking favourites such as coq au vin (US$10) and pork knuckle (US$12). For locals or those with more exotic tastes, Werner rolls out a new fusion menu that combines Asian and Western flavours in dishes that feature fresh seafood and salads. His personal favourites, Thai and Japanese food, are represented with green curries and tempura dishes. One new venture is Werner’s Tuesday night Australian-style Bar-B-Q. Sirloin steaks, sausage, lamb, roast chicken and fish will all be sizzling away on the outdoor grill, items range from US$6-11.
In a city fond of inebriation, drinks are not forgotten. House cocktails include the riverside sunrise (US$4.50) and mekong slush (US$4), a mix of crushed ice, tequila and red bull that's sure to leave your brain a similar consistency. Wines, mostly Chilean, are provided by Celliers D'Asie. In addition to local brews, Beck's, Heinekien, and Corona are on offer.
Now in Asia for 11 years, he loves the culture, diversity and warmth of the people. Most of his projects involved training and launching new ventures, so he's excited to be back in the kitchen. "Cooking is a lifelong obsession," he declares. "There's no where else I want to be."
Riverside Bistro, Cnr. Sisowath Quay & Street 148.