AsiaLIFE

The Golden Mermaid may sound like yet another hostess bar, but actually got its name from the small, intricate bas-relief mermaid that was uncovered when they began renovating the 1922 French colonial building near the post office. Serving an impressive range of old European fare in a tasteful but unassuming spot, it’s almost easily missed, but it is actually one of the best kept secrets in Phnom Penh.

In the Khmer story of Hanuman, the Monkey General and Sovann Macha, the leader of the mermaids, Hanuman only realizes his love for the graceful Sovann Macha during their arduous wrestling match, while Hanuman is trying to capture and defeat her. She eventually gets over her anger and grows to share his feelings. The tale is a good example of the strange mix of light and dark, profane and sublime, that pervades Cambodian history and culture, which contains so much beauty and seduction amid a painful backdrop.

Manfred Paul, the jovial German owner first came to Cambodia in 1995 while on holiday in Thailand. He saw children collecting rubbish on the street and felt a stark reminder of his own childhood, when he did the same after the war. His life-long passion for architecture and construction was also stirred by the beautiful, crumbling buildings here. He knew there was great opportunity for Cambodia to grow and rebuild itself, the same way Germany did, and he was excited to return.

Coming from a rural area in the south of Germany near the French border, his first major project, at 10 years old, was the construction of a coop for the family's chickens. "All my friends were out swimming and playing in the countryside, and I was hard at work building a chicken farm," laughs Manfred. "Eventually my father suggested I take a break from the chickens and focus on school." After school he started a construction and renovation business in Germany, which he owned for over 30 years.

Initially he came to this project on the building side of things. A partner from Germany was looking to open a restaurant, and with Manfred's background in construction and renovation, it was an obvious match. However, after the project was underway the partner returned to Germany unexpectedly, so Manfred was left to steer the ship alone. He brought in a talented team of Khmer staff, headed by executive chef Srun who had previously worked at Vann's and FCC. Srun brought a depth of knowledge in high-end Western food. For Manfred the learning curve has been quite steep, but enjoyable.

A glance at the menu reveals their not-so secret ambitions. With chicken liver pate, filet du beauf in coffee sauce, steak with Kampot pepper and blue cheese and weiner schnitzel, it's clear the clientele they are aiming for. In addition to more affluent Khmers who are eager to expand their palates, the area is home to embassies, businesses and some high-end hotels – the offerings match.

What doesn't match, however, are the prices. Unusually affordable, and much lower than neighboring restaurants that offer similar quality. With breakfast starting at US$3, including specials with imported Black Forest ham, lunch ranges from US$4 – US$12, and dinner at US$6 – US$15, it's hard to find fare of that caliber for those prices. Drink specials during happy hour from 5 to 7pm are half-off, which unfortunately doesn't include the excellent German beers Erdinger and Schneider Weisse, the latter of which is worth every penny.

Srun and his team work out of a spotless kitchen with an open design, so it's possible to watch them crafting your meals. They recently featured Shrimp and Cognac soup, a French-style bisque that was deliciously rich with chopped shrimp and a cream finish. The seafood salad was a beautiful array of colorful greens, beetroot and red cabbage heaped with Mekong river fish, scallops, squid, mussels from New Zealand, large prawns and langoustine. Lightly dressed and exceedingly fresh, it was an exquisite meal for US$7. Indeed, Manfred believes that the recession should not show itself on the plate, and is proud of their generous portions. Another important feature is the wine cabinet, which stores wines at their proper temperature ensuring that the flavors stay intact.

The small details of the building itself stand out. The tile floor was rescued by Manfred from a dilapidated building that was about to be torn down. The in tact tiles were transported and used as the restaurant's floor; the broken ones make up the mosaic that decorates the marble bar in front. "That's a very Cambodian thing to do, to make use of everything," says Manfred.

When the mermaid sculpture was unearthed, Manfred spent 5 hours cleaning it with a toothbrush, which sounds like a very German thing to do. The walls are painted a warm, buttery yellow and adorned with oil paintings by a local artist, along with dark wood tables, outdoor seating, all create a relaxed but sophisticated feel. There's even an open space in front of the bar that Manfred jokes is for waltzing, if you get swept away by the schnitzel and Schneider Weisse.

Growing up in post-war Germany, Manfred seems to intimately understand the position that Cambodia is in, since his childhood memories are constantly evoked here. It is his attitude of hopefulness amidst darkness that makes Manfred a perfect fit with Cambodia and uniquely attuned to its problems and wonderful attributes. He sees architecture as one of the most attractive features of Phnom Penh, and hopes that some will be preserved in order to retain the city's charm and appeal. Especially in the old quarter, where Golden Mermaid is situated, with its cobble-stone streets and old, colonial buildings it would be a shame if Phnom Penh didn't make use of it.

On the horizon for Golden Mermaid is an upgrade of the outdoor terrace, and in two weeks a guest chef from Germany who will create a special menu for a limited time. No longer a secret, make the journey up north on the riverfront and try your luck with the mermaid.