AsiaLIFE

With the impending – okay it’s come early this year – wet season, Darren has a look at some full-bodied wine which pair perfectly with a night sheltering from the rain.
June in Phnom Penh means the onset of the big wet. Rain as hard and heavy as two rounds with Manny ‘The Pacman’ Pacquiao, where tuk-tuks are overtaken by makeshift rafts in the streets. According to the urban dictionary ‘Let it Rain’ has three meanings. It is exclaimed when a favourable event occurs, it is stated when expressing determination in the face of a challenge, and it justifies yourself spending a lot of money – as in, “You make me want to take you out and let it rain.” For this month’s reviews I choose it to mean all three. For me, the rainy season means ‘Red Season’, a small window in the year when one can truly indulge the passion to open a bottle of full bodied red wine, recline in a comfortable lounge chair, meditate, ruminate and philosophise over its charms in a pool of calm reflection and tranquil contemplation. Let it rain!

Charles Melton Nine Popes
Nine Popes is legendary Australian winemaker Charlie Melton’s tribute to the wine of Chateauneuf du Pape. Charlie was one of the first to recognise the value and tradition of the Barossa’s old Grenache, Shiraz and Mourvedre vineyards. At a time when others were pulling out vineyards of red to plant more fashionable white varieties, Charlie was convincing farmers to keep their historic vineyards. He was one of a small group of winemakers who helped retain the viticultural heritage of the Barossa Valley. The rest, as they say, is history and the wine is now an Australian icon. Incredibly rich with layers and layers of complex red berry, spice and charry oak, it has hints of molasses, dark chocolate, iron fillings, gun smoke and brambles. A tiny amount of this wine is currently floating around Phnom Penh. This is a perfect wine to sit back, perhaps alongside a wheel of mature hard cheese, some quince paste, duck’s Liver paté and some jamon Iberico. You may well solve all the problems of the world right there.

Veritas Bull’s Blood
Rolf Binder is one of the Barossa region’s most respected winemakers. His father first made this wine, and with his Magyar ancestry, called it Bull’s Blood – a literal translation of the famous Hungarian red wine (‘Egri Bikaver’). A blend of 100-year-old vine Mataro (Mourvedre) and old vine Shiraz, only 500 to 600 cases are made each vintage. Veritas wines are some of the most respected and sought after amongst the winemaking fraternity in Australia and the small allocation available in Phnom Penh is worth tracking down. Its dense, rich, complex aroma, strongly perfumed with a mix of black cherries to fruitcake, carries a weighty palate. Initially lush it tightens its grip slowly and finishes with spicy tannins. Match with full flavoured stews!

Gabriel Liogier Chateauneuf du Pape
The plateau of the village of Chateauneuf, near Avignon, is situated on stony granite soils. No fewer than thirteen different varieties are permitted for the production of this most prestigious appellation of the Rhône Valley. But the four principal varieties are: Grenache, Cinsault, Mourvèdre and Syrah, with a touch of the white grape adding perfume and a silky texture. This powerful Chateauneuf wine is deep in colour and has a complex, fruity nose. It is full, rich and ripe on the palate, bursting with complex, ripe, red berry and black-forest cake flavours accented by subtle hints of mixed peel, exotic spices, coffee grinds and truffle. Match with barbecued meats.

Domaine Paul Blanck ‘F’ Pinot Noir
Though arguably not a full-bodied wine (definitely medium bodied), it’s just too good to omit. Blancks have been making wine in Alsace for hundreds of years. This wine was the brainchild of two brothers, Bernard and Marcel Blanck, 35 years ago. They had completed their training in Burgundy and Bordeaux, and started suspecting the possibilities offered by their parcel of vines in the Grand Cru Furstentum. Since 1985 Frédéric and Philippe Blanck have carried on their work. This wine is undoubtedly the Alsace regions greatest Pinot Noir and gives a glimpse of the enormous potential of the Furstentum Grand Cru. The wine is exceptional with loads of sweet cherry and wild strawberry flavour, a rich creamy texture and hints of nice forest floor (truffles, spices, game, damp earth). Pair with pigeon, guinea fowl, turkey, duck and gosling.