AsiaLIFE

Shopping ethically can be a difficult task anywhere in the world, but perhaps especially so in Cambodia where cheap, disposable clothing floods local markets. Fashion blogger Jessica Marati takes AsiaLIFE through the sustainable style minefield. Photography by Dylan Walker.

Even in a chaotic environment like Cambodia, it is possible to embrace the values of social responsibility, conscious consumerism, and sustainable living. To start, however, you have to know what you’re looking for. There are many ways to approach socially responsible shopping.

What To Look For

A first point to consider is the ecological sustainability of an item of clothing’s supply chain. For instance if the item is cotton, you should consider where it is sourced, how it is woven and where all the extra bits – the buttons, the zippers, the accents – are made.

Harmful practices are used to make certain items. Most textiles are coloured with synthetic dyes, which can be toxic to workers and the environment, if the right labour conditions and disposal measures aren’t in place. Those distressed jeans you’re lusting after were probably sandblasted, a process that has been criticised for causing silicosis, a potentially lethal condition that develops when small particles of silica dust become embedded in workers’ lungs.

Sustainable fashion also includes an ethical side, which deals primarily with fair labour standards, workers rights and wages. Questions to ask are: Where is the product sewn? Is the factory or workshop paying its employees fairly? Does the brand have any social initiatives in place?

Phnom Penh garment factories have recently been chastised for harsh conditions after reports of fainting workers made the international news – something to bear in mind when you consider that much of the clothing you’ll find in local markets are factory cast-offs.

Do Your Best

With so many factors at play, it can seem impossible to make responsible shopping decisions in Cambodia, but that shouldn’t dissuade consumers from trying to become more conscious.

“Eco-fashion is not perfect,” says local fashion designer Rachel Faller, founder of sustainable apparel and accessories brand KeoK’jay.

“It’s impossible to be 100 percent sustainable. But you do the best you can and you try to be as transparent as possible.”

One way to make a real difference with your riel is to shop locally, from Cambodia-based designers and boutiques, rather than at markets, fashion chains, and department stores that import foreign clothing. By doing this, you can be assured that your spending will support local businesses, create local jobs, and circulate in the local economy.

There are a number of other options available, if you’re willing to be creative. Here are just a few.

Ethical Fashion Boutiques

Faller’s KeoK’jay, with branches in Phnom Penh’s Street 240 and Siem Reap’s Alley West, has developed a reputation for being among the most ethical fashion lines in Cambodia. Faller works with women living with HIV and AIDS to produce casual clothing, primarily from recycled materials.

“It’s difficult to find sustainable materials in Cambodia, unless you import,” Faller says. “That’s why we work mostly with recycled materials that we find here. We use a lot of pre-consumer recycled jersey from factories in the area, as well as fabric we find secondhand in the markets and scraps from other items that we make.”

Other ethical boutiques in Phnom Penh include Friends @ 240, run by local NGO Friends-International. There you can find a stylish selection of urban streetwear, designed and sewn by budding young tailors participating in a vocational training program. Smateria on Street 57 also produces accessories made with recycled plastic bags and fishing nets.

In Siem Reap, head to Beau Fou - a boutique on the second floor of Joe to Go café near old market. It stocks French-inspired fashions and accessories along with a wide variety of unique items from Cambodia-based non-profit and community organisations. All proceeds support The Global Child, a school for street children.

Vintage and Secondhand Markets

The vintage and secondhand scene in Cambodia is relatively new, but growing quickly. Tokyo Thrift on Street 47 is one of the best-known secondhand shops in Phnom Penh, stocking an enormous selection of funky apparel and accessories from Japan. Outside Boeung Keng Kang Market, several stalls offer deals starting at 2000 riel.

If you don’t have the patience to rummage through racks of old clothing, a number of vintage boutiques have done the work for you. In Phnom Penh, try Bella Rose, located in the back of KeoK’jay, or Color Vintage on Street 13, where an on-site tailor is available to make adjustments, free of charge. In Siem Reap, don’t miss Poetry’s backroom selection of secondhand goods on Alley West - a recent visit revealed loads of brand-name finds.

Custom Tailoring

If you really want to know where your clothing is coming from, you have the option of getting it made. Navigating Cambodia’s custom tailoring scene can be an adventure, but it allows you to have more control over your clothing.

Start off by purchasing your material. The Goel Community offers bolts of hand-woven naturally dyed cotton, as well as some of their own designs. A visit to the showroom in Phnom Penh is by appointment only. Contact This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it to set up a visit.

If your preference is silk and your pockets are deep, try the showroom at Artisans d’Angkor Silk Farm outside Siem Reap. Not only can you pick up some glorious textiles, you can also take a tour to see how the silk is made, from silkworm to loom.

Next, you’re going to need a tailor to construct your garment. If you don’t already have a go-to, try the talented tailoring students at Friends @ 240, which also has an in-house workshop. Prices start at US$1 for small alterations and go up to US$10-$25 for dresses, depending on complexity.

“Our tailoring service offers training and employment to marginalised youth, and 100 percent of the profits go straight back into Friends-International projects to help vulnerable children, their families and their community,” says Emma Fountain, marketing advisor for Friends-International.

Shopping responsibly in Cambodia may require a bit more work, but it will undoubtedly result in a better quality wardrobe filled with more meaningful items – and a clearer conscience.

For more information, read Jessica’s ethical fashion blog at http://toutlemon.de.