AsiaLIFE

Looking to pack in one of the world’s biggest cities in three days? On an extended layover between New York and Phnom Penh, Mai Lynn Miller Nguyen does some Seoul-searching in the South Korean capital.

Tokyo, Beijing and Hong Kong may be northern Asia’s tourist hotspots, but Seoul is gaining ground. Rightly so, given the cultural and commercial renaissance the capital has experienced within recent years.

Sprawled across more than 600 square kilometres, Seoul begs for weeks of exploration, but, given some determination to conquer the distances, a traveller can experience the city’s mix of modernity and traditionalism in three days.

Bypass the tourist areas and join in-the-know locals at some of the city’s best dining, shopping and nightlife spots.

DAY ONE:
A GLIMPSE OF THE PAST
10am
Fit for A King
Although the original structure was destroyed in the 16th century, visitors can still have a royal experience at the Gyeongbokgung Palace, a replica completed in the 20th century. Arrive at 10am to see a changing of the guard that could easily rival the proceedings at Buckingham Palace in ceremonial splendour. Highlights include the Hyangwonjeong pavilion, placed in the centre of a water lily-filled pond. Adult fee is 3,000 won, under 18 is 1,500 won (the current rate of conversion is around 1,050 won to one US dollar).

1pm
Old World Feel
Located within a quick walk from the palace, the Samcheong-dong neighbourhood in Jongno-gu is a delightful place to spend an afternoon, full of boutiques, cafes and art galleries. Winding pathways off the main street lead to quaint Bukchon Hanok-style traditional residences. For lunch, try Tosokchon (85-1 Chebu-dong, Tel: 02 737 7444), known for its chicken and ginseng soup, or Sanchon (14 Gwanhun-dong, Tel: 02 735 0312), a vegetarian eatery owned by a former monk.

7pm
DIY Grilling
Korean barbecue is a must for any carnivorous visitor. Mapo Soot-bool Galbi (62-6 Nonhyeon-dong, at Dosan Boulevard, Tel: 02 516 1522) is one of the city’s many barbecue joints. What it may lack in style—customers sit on the ground and the décor scheme is basic—the restaurant makes up for in taste. Diners can choose amongst pork or beef varieties, served raw. Then the fun begins—sizzle your feast on your tabletop grill station.

9pm
Raise a Glass
Toast your first evening in Seoul at the 3 Sixty Wine Bar on the top of The Banyan Tree Hotel (San 5-5, Jang Chung-Dong 2-Ga, 02 2250 8000). Head up to the 20th floor, which includes an al fresco space. When the evening brings the temperature down, the waitstaff are happy to light a fireplace, ignite a heat lamp and bring out some warm blankets to ensure customer comfort. But even a few chills are worth it—the bar affords a spectacular view of Seoul’s bright lights.

DAY TWO:
GET IN ON THE ACTION
11am
Market Frenzy
Explore Namdaemun Market, an explosion of colour, noise and smells to awaken the senses. A few stalls hawk the usual tourist trinkets—printed silk fans, chopstick sets and little teddy bears dressed in traditional Korean costume—but otherwise, Namdaemun is the mecca for locals to stock up on bedding, pottery, food stall titbits and much more. Sift through tables of clothing for bargains. Check out the shops devoted to “KPop”, the vernacular for Korean pop music, for notebooks, key rings and other items emblazoned with images of Asia’s current music sensations.

3pm
Art at Great Heights
Namsan Tower is the city’s most iconic skyscraper, but the building in 63 City (Yook-Sam Building, 60 Yeouido-dong, Yeongdeungpo-gu, Tel: 02 789 5663) challenges its predecessor with a gallery space on the 59th floor. Those who are afraid of heights be forewarned—the rapidly rising glass elevator can give a rush to even the bravest of visitors. Once at the zenith, it’s a toss-up of what deserves your attention first: the exhibited art or the panoramic outlook of Seoul in daylight. If acrophobia deters you, 63 City also has an aquarium on ground level.

8pm
Viva the Nightlife
Hongdae is the realm of the city’s youngsters and night owls, where lively bars and boutiques stay open late. The restaurants serve varied cuisine, including Japanese and American. Escape the boisterous crowds by strolling down side streets to more relaxed drinking spots. Aa Café (408-11 Seo-kyo Dong, Tel: 02 3143 7311) offers cocktails and nibbles in a room full of eclectic furniture (the downstairs is a design museum), whereas Castle Praha (Solnae 6-gil, Tel: 025 969 200) resembles a Czech citadel and has an underground beer hall.

DAY THREE:
EXPLORE NEW KOREA
9am
Pastries and Pleasantries
With a cosy ambience and friendly service, Alaska (Sinsadong 550-22, Tel: 02 545 5872) is an inviting place to spend a meal. Alaska’s mighty array of pastries is full of temptations both sweet and savoury, including muffins, croissants and sausage-filled buns. The café is the haunt of so-called “trophy wives,” who gather for gossip and coffees. Afterwards, take a walk around nearby Dosan Park, a tidy patch of greenery, surrounded by high-end designer shops like Hermès.

11am
Chic Shopping
Lined with shady trees, chic boutiques and cutesy cafés, the Garosu-gil Street in Sinsadong is abuzz on weekends. Snag a seat at an open-air eatery like Bloom and Goûte, a charming flower shop-cum-restaurant serving Western fare, and watch the sidewalk become a catwalk as the city’s trendsetters trawl the shops. To fill some consumer impulses of your own, wander into Åland, a concept store featuring apparel, accessories and knickknacks from young South Korean designers.

7pm
Local Eats
Colleagues, couples on dates and families frequent Sawore Boribap (610-5 Gujeong, Tel: 02 540 5292), a simple yet spacious contemporary Korean restaurant. The servers bring out an assortment of kimchi, the fermented, seasoned vegetables that accompany many Korean dishes. Don’t miss the Bi Bim Bap, considered a Korean mainstay, which combines vegetable, chilli paste, beef and, Sawore Boribap’s signature, a hearty portion of barley rice.

9pm
Cheers, Seoul
Cheaper than water, soju is not the country’s only alcoholic specialty; the milky white makkoli is also a Korean rice wine worth tasting. Help Me Bar, located on the hill in Cheongdam-dong, Gangnam-gu, is a hip pub specialising in the latter, where an outdoor seating area fills up with fashionable young locals. As a snack must be ordered along with the drink, try the kimchi pajeon, a piquant Korean pancake-like dish. And what better note to end a trip to Seoul than on some more kimchi?

Asiana Airlines and Korean Air offer two non-stop flights a day between Phnom Penh and Seoul Incheon Airport (around five hours duration).