AsiaLIFE

New Orleans native Michael Tatarski goes beyond Bourbon Street to show all that his hometown has to offer.

Louis Armstrong famously asked, “Do you know what it means to miss New Orleans?” As a native who hasn’t spent much time there in recent years, I certainly do.

Yes, the city doesn’t exactly have a sterling reputation, thanks to its frequent political scandals, liberal views on alcohol consumption, and the infamous decadence of Bourbon Street.  Fortunately, there is enough culture, especially in terms of cuisine, music, and history, to make you forget about the sleazy side of New Orleans.

On a recent visit, I found that the city is recovering well from the devastation of Hurricane Katrina, and that the local cultural scene is flourishing. Given the fact that New Orleans was once the capital of France’s territory of Louisiana, it is no surprise that a heavy Gallic influence permeates the city.

Start your day in the historic French Quarter at Café du Monde, whose outdoor seating ensures you won’t miss the interesting street scenes taking place on bustling Decatur. Take in the  frequent street performances over a refreshing café au lait and a hot plate of beignets, the light, fluffy French donuts that the café is justifiably famous for. But, be warned: the beignets are doused in powdered sugar, so wearing dark clothing is not recommended.

Once you’ve cleaned yourself off, meander through the old streets of the French Quarter, where the signs still say “Rue”, instead of “Street”, and the architecture is more French than almost anywhere else in America. Wander down Royal Street and explore the many boutique clothing stores, art galleries, and antique shops that line the way. Step into St. Louis Cathedral, the centrepiece of Jackson Square and the oldest continuously operating cathedral in the U.S., for some air-conditioned respite from the city’s heat. Once you’ve examined the cathedral’s impressive interior, head next door to the Cabildo, which houses the Louisiana State Museum, and soak in some local history.

Then, walk over to the newly restored French Market, which is wedged between Decatur and North Peters, and demarcates the eastern end of the Quarter. In operation since 1791, the market provides fresh produce and other food items during the week. The weekend, however, is the best time to go. The flea market brings out dozens of artists and craftsmen, as well as the occasional band. Grab a snack at one of the food stalls to munch on while you browse the goods on offer, or enjoy the Sunday-afternoon cooking demonstrations.

By now you’ll probably be feeling peckish, so go ahead and introduce yourself to one of America’s great cuisines: Creole. History has altered the original definition of Creole, but the term first applied to Louisianans descended from French and Spanish colonial settlers. In the centuries since the end of European rule, African and Haitian immigrants have made their mark on Creole culture, and the end result is a cuisine that is completely unique to southern Louisiana. New Orleans is home to the best Creole food in the country and a great place to sample a few staples is the Gumbo Shop on Saint Peter. The highlights are jambalaya, crawfish etouffee, and the simple but timeless red beans and rice.

Fully satisfied, kick off your first night in the Crescent City at Preservation Jazz Hall, an oldschool jazz club with minimal decorations, and almost no seating.  The ‘No photography’ rule is strictly enforced, but the music is more than worth the regulations. The house band usually consists of a piano, drums, trumpet, trombone, and stand-up bass. If you’ve never heard jazz before, Preservation Hall is an essential primer on the genre that was invented in New Orleans. After the music stops, you might as well walk around the corner and join the throngs of tourists on Bourbon since, as cliché and over-hyped as it is, a visit to New Orleans wouldn’t be complete without a night of debauchery. Recommended stops are Pat O’Brien’s for a classic Hurricane cocktail and Jean Lafitte’s Blacksmith Shop, which is one of the city’s oldest bars. Drink all that you can handle, and try not to pass out in front of a strip club.

Once you’ve slept off the sins of the previous night, head over to the up-and-coming Warehouse District for lunch at Butcher, a self-proclaimed ‘swine bar’. The little brother of Chef Donald Link’s white-tablecloth Cochon (French for ‘pig’), Butcher is a shrine to that holiest of meats: pork. Sandwiches are the specialty here, and options include pork belly, home-made bacon, and an assortment of other pig-related parts.

After gorging yourself, walk two blocks to the outstanding National World War II Museum, its ever-expanding exhibits cover both the Atlantic and Pacific theatres of the monumental conflict. Artillery pieces and planes fill the hangar-like entrance hall, and detailed displays fill the remainder of the building. Don’t miss “Beyond all Boundaries”, a specially made film that covers the breadth of the war in “4-D”. This museum can easily hold your interest for hours.

Then, make your way to the leafy Uptown neighborhood by hopping onto an iconic streetcar for a ride down St. Charles Avenue, the city’s grandest boulevard. Ride past the majestic mansions and magnificent, century-old oak trees until you reach The Columns Hotel. Built in 1883, this gorgeous hotel houses a great bar that offers half-off Happy Hour from 5-7pm, every day of the week. Once you’ve imbibed to your heart's content, get back on the streetcar and head to the Riverbend area.

The rest of your night will be spent on Oak Street, which is lined with bars and restaurants. Located just blocks away from Tulane and Loyola Universities, you are bound to run into groups of college students during your night here. For dinner, go to Jacques-Imo’s, which is eternally packed and for good reason. The mix of Creole and Cajun cuisine is top-notch, and any dish involving seafood is sure to bowl you over. Be sure to order the cornbread as well.

When dinner is over, it’s time to dive back into New Orleans’ famous music scene; this time at the Maple Leaf, a dive bar two doors down from Jacques-Imo’s. Don’t let the lackluster appearance deceive you though, for this hole-in-the-wall brings in some of the city’s best bands on a nightly basis. Grab a drink and dance the hours away to the likes of Rebirth Brass Band and Papa Grows Funk.

By the time you get back to your hotel, you’ll have experienced plenty of New Orleans culture; especially in terms of food and music, which are the lifeblood of the city.

The best time of the year to visit is between February and May, when the weather is pleasant and the festival season is in full swing. These months are bookended by Mardi Gras and the New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival. The fame of both is justified. It is just impossible not to have a great time if your trip coincides with either of these great events.