AsiaLIFE

Santa Claus and his sleigh bells it might not have, but the ancient northern Thai city of Chiang Mai with its temperate climate and almost Alpine atmosphere makes for the perfect Christmas getaway from Phnom Penh. Words by Mark Jackson.

Back in the fourteenth century when Bangkok was little more than a village, Chiang Mai was already a thriving centre of commerce and travel. The capital of the kingdom of Lanna (literally “one million rice fields”) was founded in 1296 by King Mengrai. Today the ancient walled city of Chiang Mai remains a relatively well-preserved enclave.

Although much of the wall has now fallen into ruins, fragments of it still survive, particularly along Chang Loh Road. The moat still remains, clearly delineating the old city. This is a great place to stroll. Just follow your nose and you are bound to stumble across one of the twenty or so wats littered around the labyrinth of medieval sois (lanes). Intersperse your culture vulturing with a coffee or two in one of the chill coffee houses that outnumber the wats.

What’s in a Wat

Dating back to 1296, Wat Chiang Man (Temple of the Steadfast City) is the oldest wat in Chiang Mai. Said to be the residence of King Mengrai during the construction of the city, the main attraction here is a small crystal Buddha locals say has the power to bring rain.

Much more striking is Wat Chedi Luang (Temple of the Big Stupa). Don’t be fooled by its modest appearance from Phrapoklao Road, behind the more modern wat lies one of the country’s more striking wats. Partially destroyed by the earthquake of 1545, Chedi has been largely restored with the aid of Unesco, although like Ta Prohm part of its charm lies in its damaged condition. The naga staircases are reputed to be some of the finest in northern Thailand. This wat is the major site for observing Buddhist holidays and celebrations in the city. Built in the grounds of the king’s gardens Wat Suan Dok is also well worth a visit. Particularly photogenic, this is the final resting place for many of the Lanna kings.

Wat Phra That Doi Suthep (open 6am to 7pm) is the most famous and impressive of Chiang Mai’s wats. It lies outside of the city itself on Suthep Mountain. Legend has it that in 1368, the then ruler of Lanna, King Nu Naone, placed a piece of Buddha’s shoulder blade onto the back of a white elephant. The animal charged up the mountain only to collapse and die three-quarters of the way up. Nu Naone ordered that the temple be built at the place where the elephant fell. Buddha’s bone is now enshrined in a massive gold-clad stupa.

Whether you believe this story or the more prosaic version that it was built by King Kue-Na in 1384 sans-elephant, what is undeniable is that the view from the temple on a clear day is spectacular. You can take the 12-kilometre journey for 60 baht by truck, although you still have to climb 309 steps once you get there.

The Riverside and Night Market

Like all great cities, Chiang Mai is set on a river. The Mae Nam Ping is largely responsible for the city’s development as a major trading post. The eastern bank of the river, particularly between Nawarat and Nakhon Ping bridges has many fine examples of old wooden houses – evidence of the port’s mercantile past.

One of these was turned into the Riverside Bar and Restaurant in 1984. With the unmistakable feel of a London pub on the banks of the Thames, this makes for the perfect spot to while away some time watching the river flow by. With acoustic guitar from 7.45pm and three live bands from 9.30pm, it is also guaranteed to be packed seven nights a week. Just along from it is The Old Place No. 89. This beautiful 116-year-old wooden building has been turned into a coffee house and smoothie parlour by its owner, architect Pattanachai, regardless of whether or not you are thirsty, pop in and have a browse. There is also an array of boutique shops and art galleries in this area.

Slightly set back from the opposite bank of the river, is the Night Bazaar (Changklan Road). Both pavements are filled with traders trying to sell all sorts of bargains. A few more permanent market structures flow out from the street into the sois. Nearby, Anusan Market is another option for those who have not had their surfeit of ‘Same Same’ t-shirts.

Homestays, Elephant Rides and Zip Lines

Just like Luang Prabang in Laos and Sapa in northern Vietnam, part of the appeal of the market is the range of goods made by local ethnic tribes on sale at the bazaar. Northern Thailand has six main ethnic groups that have migrated to the region over the years from Myanmar, Tibet and China – the Karen, Hmong, Akha, Lisu, Lahu and Mien (or Yao). 

Much more satisfying than buying goods from the tribespeople who migrate to Chiang Mai, is to take a trip into the foothills and go on a homestay. The streets around the old city are full of small travel agencies offering trips into the foothills or further a-field into the Golden Triangle to Chiang Rai or across the border (by bus and boat) to Luang Prabang.

Half-day trips include visits to a handicraft centre (200 baht) or to Wat Phra That Doi Suthep (700 baht). Alternatively go to Mae Tang National Park where you can ride elephants, swim in waterfalls, white water raft, go bamboo rafting, and trek for three hours in an exhausting day’s trip for 1,000 baht.

The latter can easily be extended by a day, which gives more time to take in the scenery and includes a night’s homestay (1,200 baht). Other trips involve visiting five hill tribe villages and the Chiang Dao Cave (900 baht) or the Doi Inthanon Mountain, at 2,565 metres Thailand’s highest peek. This includes three waterfalls and yet more hill tribe villages (1,100 baht).

Those more adventurous could opt for The Flight of the Gibbon. Just an hour’s drive away from Chiang Mai, you can walk along a treetop walkway through pristine rainforest, before swinging Tarzan-style through the trees’ canopy on zip lines. A three-hour ‘flight’ should cost around 2,000 baht, although prices vary depending on what time you set off.

Wining and Dining

Ping Ping Seafood Market, behind Anusan Market, is the most popular place for tourists to try some seafood, presumably flown up from Bangkok. This al fresco affair has numerous restaurants competing for trade, many showing their wares in small tanks at the front.

Those wishing to try some local Lanna cuisine, could try Le Grand Lanna in the Mandarin Oriental Dhara Dhevi Hotel, which specialises in northern Thai cuisine. If your budget doesn’t stretch that far, then try Just Khao Soy (108/2 Charoen Prathet Road) which does what it says on the tin – only selling the local dish Khao Soy, albeit either in chicken, beef, vegetables or pork (99 baht). This curry soup has both soft and crispy noodles and comes served with a range of side dishes including banana, pickle, chilli paste and onion. This tasty dish would go down particularly well on a cold winter’s night.

Fans of tom yam koong shouldn’t miss eating at the restaurant on the ground floor of Le Meridien Hotel (Chang Klan Road), which has one the finest spicy, prawn soup dishes this reviewer has ever tasted – complete with two enormous tiger prawns that would make the boldest lobster blush.   

As befits a university town, Chiang Mai has a vibrant, chic nightlife away from the market. To the northwest of town, Nimmanhaemin Road is the in-place to go. Warm Up (40 Nimmanhaemin Road) and Monkey Club (Nimmanhaemin Road, Soi 9) are two of the coolest places to hang out – expect to meet a lot of hip, young Thais here. Alternatively The Glass Onion (Rooms, the Boutique Mall, Nimmanheimin Soi 17)  with its grand piano, faux waterfall and art-deco swivel chairs is a good place for a pre-dinner cocktail. Those looking for a good glass of vino should head for Darling Wine Bar (49/21 Huay Kaew Road).

Lots of late night drinking haunts spill out onto the streets near the junction of Loi Kron Road and Kotchasarn Road. Strictly hole-in-the-wall joints, these are really much of a muchness – the difference lying in how loud you like your music and how friendly your hellos. Power Bar is probably the loudest. Tucked around the corner, Number 1 Bar (Loikroh Road, Soi 1) is noteworthy for its extensive range of Belgian beers, including Leffe on tap. Fans of beer other than Tiger will be pleased to note that there are at least three Irish bars in town, including O’Malleys which is conveniently placed inside Anusarn Market, and has barstaff who know how to pour a pint of the black stuff – although is the Shamrock really de rigueur?


Loy Krathong

Coinciding with Phnom Penh’s Water Festival, is Loy Krathong. The festival, which can be traced back to the Hindu Diwali festival, is a spectacular event – easily one of the best in the region. Powered by Catherine wheels of wax paper, white paper lanterns (kom loy) sail up into the atmosphere, the burning wax paper illuminating the skies like little stars rising towards the Full Moon. Small floats (loy krathong) – decorated with incense sticks, candles, flowers, coins and strangely toenails – are released onto the river. All bad luck is supposed to float away with the offering, making a fresh start.

At the same time as the waterways and skies are filled with lights, locals and tourists alike spill out onto the street launching hand-held fireworks into the air and throwing bangers in front of passing tuk-tuks. Despite failing to meet European safety standards, this is an exuberant festival, full of optimism and undeniably the best time to visit the northern Thai gem of a city.


INFORMATION

Currency - 1USD = 35 Thai baht

How to get there

AirAsia, Thai Airways and Bangkok Airways all fly flights to Chiang Mai from Bangkok. It’s possible to get a connecting flight from Phnom Penh, thus avoiding having to stay a night in Bangkok. Thai is currently offering return flights for US$325. AirAsia is slightly cheaper if you book through their website at www.airasia.com.

Tourist Information

There are more maps and free magazines in Chiang Mai than wats, the most useful source of information is Chiang Mai 101, which is a quarterly magazine and costs 100 baht.

Where to Stay

Deluxe
Le Meridien
Chang Klan Road, Tel: +66 53 253 666   
www.lemeridien.com/chiangmai
Opened on Nov. 1, Le Meridien has all the facilities of a five-star with the design classic of a boutique hotel. Worth the visit even if you just want to hang around the sumptuous lobby area or have a drink at the bar. Rooms are from 7,800 baht.

Mid-range
The 3 Sis
1 Phrapokklao Road Soi 8
Tel: +66 53 273 243
www.the3sis.com
Elegant boutique hotel set around a central courtyard set in the heart of the old city. Large rooms have flat-screen tvs, safe and air-con. Has WiFi in the lobby area. Rooms from 1,300 baht.

Budget
Chor Malee Guest House
124-128 Charoeun Raj Road
Tel: +66 53 244 067
www.chormaleeguesthouse.com
Recently opened guest house which has nine rooms, all with air-con and tvs. Conveniently located on the riverside, close to the Riverside Pub. Has WiFi in reception. Rooms from 450 to 650 baht.