AsiaLIFE

Situated less than 200 kilometres from the Vietnamese capital of Hanoi, Halong Bay is unquestionably one of the must-see places in Southeast Asia. Words by Mark Bibby Jackson, photos by Keith Kelly.

Although some geologists might poor scorn on the myth, believing the bay to be the result of millions of years of geological movement, stalactites in the shape of a baby dragon’s spine can be found in the roof of Sung Sot Cave and the she-dragon’s remains lie in Thien Cung Cave. For those who still remain sceptical, the countless pearls that are fished out of the bay and on sale around the town of Halong should be proof for even the most cynical of modernists.

To get to the bay all you have to do is hop on one of the many charter boats from Bai Chay Port, which is where the buses from Hanoi’s My Dinh station stop. Alternatively arrange the trip with one of the many bucket shops in Hanoi. The bay itself is unquestionably one of the world’s natural wonders. 1,969 karst islands, islets and rocks jut out of the beautiful, calm green waters. Halong’s beauty lies in the sheer quantity of the irregularly shaped rocks, the caves and the wonderfully calm waters. Unesco recognized it as a World Heritage site for its landscape and beauty (aesthetic value) back in 1994, and once again in 2000 for its geology.

Throughout the ages the bay has been more than a natural beauty spot, serving as the hub of trading and cultural transactions between Vietnam and its Southeast and East Asian neighbours, as well as the scene of many fierce naval battles. The waters themselves contain marine, coral and mangrove eco-systems providing an enormous array of aquatic species, 163 different species of coral and almost a thousand species of fish, shrimp and abalone that provide a rich harvest for the fisherman who still live on the waters.

The Vietnamese have a saying which sums up the importance of Halong on their culture. “If you are Vietnamese and haven’t been to Halong, you can’t understand your own country, if you are a foreigner and haven’t visited Halong, you can’t say you have been to Vietnam.”

Of the almost 2,000 karst islands and rocks in the bay the biggest and most popular place to stay for tourists is Cat Ba, which although technically just outside the world heritage site and in neighbouring Hai Phong Province, has also been declared a separate world heritage site by Unesco for its international environmental significance. About half of the rocks have names, normally based on their shape, such as ‘stone dog’ on Dau Go Island and ‘incense burner’, ‘fighting chickens’ (the symbol of Halong Bay) and ‘giant turtle’. To be honest some of the rock’s names are a bit stretched, but at least this allows you licence to create a few good ones of your own. After all half are still unnamed. Some are named after historical events, such as ‘poem’ mountain, which has the engravings of the muses of past emperors and poets. Ti Top Island is named after the Russian pilot who met Ho Chi Minh here in 1962. It has a spectacular viewpoint at the top of a 400-step climb. Although unpopulated, some of the islands have monkeys, which the fortunate can spot from their boats. Endangered golden-headed langur live on Cat Ba.

Although dozens of caves and grottos have been discovered so far, many more await intrepid cavers. Archaeologists believe that three prehistoric cultures have lived in the area, spanning some 17,000 years. Bones and stone bowls have been found in some of the caves. Many even have remnants of the time when the bay was not covered in water – small freshwater shells – evidence that the area was once dry, almost impossible to believe as you sail through the narrow channels. There are three types of cave. The first are the sea-level caves like Bo Nau (a kind of bird). A small cave that is easily accessible, it contains many interesting stalactites. Larger caves, such as Thien Cung and Sung Sot (Surprise) are some 30 metres above sea level.

Only discovered at the end of the nineteenth century, Sung Sot is said to be two million years old. Split into three sections with a well-lit, interlinking path, it covers some 10,000 square metres. Again the stalactites have been given names, like ‘ship’s sail’, ‘frog family’ and ‘two lovers’, but the clearest and most illuminated rock formation is a jutting male member that leaves little to the imagination. The third group consists of caves you can pass through in a small boat or, for the more sporting, by kayak. The longest series of ‘through’ caves is at Ho Ba Ham – in total some 400 metres long. Close to Sung Son is the 50-metre long Hang Luon (‘through cave’). Once you pass through it, you enter the most spectacular of lagoons, as if entering a long-lost world.

One of the more interesting things to do while sailing through the bay is to visit one of the four fishing villages, or floating markets in the bay. The most easily accessible are Ba Hang close to ‘stone dog’ rock and Bo Nau just before Sung Sot Cave, but the biggest one is Cua Van, some 20 kilometres from Bai Chay.

Most trips stop at one of the villages where you can buy fish and seafood to cook on the boat. The villagers live, work and sleep on the little rafts, that is when they are not out catching fish. Small schools based in the elders’ house ensure that the children receive a rudimentary education.

The main beach in Halong is called Bai Chay and it is a reasonable civic beach with plenty of seafood restaurants and bars on it. The best time to visit is as the sun goes down over the bay and the locals come out in full attire to wade in the not particularly clean waters. Ti Top Island has a better, albeit artificial, beach. Glorious beaches can be found further a field on Quan Lan and Ngoc Vung islands, but these involve an overnight stay. Possibly the best beach in Quan Ninh Province is Tra Co beach in Mong Cai close to the Chinese border some 185 kilometres from Halong. It has 17 kilometres of sand and is reputed to have good surf. You can get there by bus or speedboat.

More than 400 boats ply their trade from Bai Chay wharf in Halong. Most of them do a day-trip around the bay. Around 50 of them have berths below deck so that you can spend an amazing night sleeping under the stars or taking a romantic midnight dip.

Above all it is the size of the bay that is crucial – some 1,533 square kilometres - there might be another 100 or so boats drifting their way aimlessly around the rocks. There’s always some space for you to find and settle into your karma, with only the gentle rustle of breeze through potted palm trees, and the soothing hum of the engine. If you are lucky enough to time your trip for a fine day, with the sun shimmering on the waters, you might just start to believe in dragons.