AsiaLIFE

What should you see in Luang Prabang? Maybe nothing. Jeremy Kressmann discovers the simpler pleasures and laid-back charm of this relaxed Laotian hotspot. Photos by Keith Kelly.

It was nearly two in the morning in Luang Prabang, and I was clinging for dear life on a speeding moto-taxi. Having just closed down the bar at the after-hours bowling alley (more on that shortly), I was headed for bed. Ahead of me was Phu Si, the city's most famous hill, its lustrous gold stupa glittering in the moonlight like a majestic crown. My open air ride whooshed past elegant colonial mansions and art deco apartment blocks. The lush smell of frangipani hung in the air, invading my nostrils. A solitary dog howled at the stillness of dark. It was practically the middle of the night, but Luang Prabang was awake, talking to my senses.

Luang Prabang just might be the world's most beautiful city. Through the turbulent years of recent Laotian history, fraught by coups and strife, this understated capital on the Mekong has basked in its role as unsuspecting beauty queen, charming Royal Families, pious monks and French colonial officers alike. The city's unique blend of cultures and ideas have created a destination that cries out for exploration—a place bursting with sensory delights. In fact, the best part of a Luang Prabang visit isn't the must-see sights. Instead it's the multitude of bright colours, wonderful smells and tastes, colonial architecture and chilled attitude that gives the place its particular charm. Simply wandering the streets is a pleasure in and of itself.

At each turn, Luang Prabang would yield an unexpected discovery and draw me in with an unexplainable allure, turning my itinerary on its head and forcing me to slip into a lazy pace that rewarded my curiosity.

The Spiritual and the Secular
Luang Prabang is a place that seamlessly mixes religious devotion with everyday life. Along Sisavangvong Street, the town's main road, gold-leafed Buddhist monasteries are intermingled among art galleries and fading French colonial mansions. The monasteries' orange-robed monks mingle effortlessly with pedestrian life, chatting with visitors, lining up for alms at dawn—even doing yard work.

The most famous Luang Prabang religious site is Wat Xieng Thong, a serene oasis of Buddhist devotion buried deep in the historic downtown. I began my exploration with a morning visit, eager to explore the sight's temples and colourful sorroundings. Inside the Wat gates, intricate door carvings were layered with Buddhist characters, as angry dragon statues bared their teeth and branches of bougainvillea drooped over buildings, exploding with bright orange and purple flowers like botanical firecrackers. It was a visual buffet of religious symbolism and simple charm.

I left Wat Xieng Thong silently awed, transported by its gorgeous setting and spiritual weight. Yet as I was walking down the street, I noticed a peculiar sight. Through an open gate was another, much smaller Wat. Inside, a group of four Laotian teenagers slapped at a badminton shuttlecock, laughing and shouting as they played. They were surrounded by several bald-headed monks, who busied themselves sweeping the concrete courtyard. I was struck by the serendipity of this unexpected moment, a symphony of the everyday and the holy connected as one.

A Banquet of Delights
Luang Prabang is not just a feast for the eyes. Lately it has emerged as a budding culinary destination. Located at the confluence of the Mekong and Nam Khan Rivers, the town's ample aquatic resources ensure bountiful fresh fish and fertile soil for local produce. The quality ingredients are combined with European culinary techniques thanks to a historic French colonial influence. The result are spots like the stellar Joma Bakery Cafe, with fresh-baked pastries and breads, as well as numerous local eateries serving up authentic Laotian dishes like laab, a dish of minced meat mixed with herbs, chili and citrus.

I was hungry to experience Luang Prabang's bounty of culinary options. My first stop was lunch at Tamarind, a hub of typical Lao cooking blended with Western influences. In addition to top-notch food, the eatery also offers cooking classes to help introduce the curious to Lao cuisine. My meal of ground chicken blended with a tangy mixture of spicy herbs, creamy sauce and sour citrus, wrapped in lemongrass and deep-fried, was a thrill. It toyed with my taste buds, hinting at a palette of flavours and textures artfully painted across the tongue. Equally enjoyable was the unique Tamarind juice cocktail, a blend of coconut milk, plum and jujube fruit over ice. Each sip was a subtle blending of the milky, the tangy and the sweet: playful but also robust and exotic. The cuisine of Luang Prabang, much like the town’s setting, can excite you in unexpected ways.

That evening I discovered a very different culinary surprise. I was foraging for dinner when I noticed a cloud of smoke wafting from an alley off Sisavangvong Street. Following the cloud's sublime smell, I turned onto a narrow, chaotic lane, a street food wonderland jam-packed with tourists and locals alike, salivating over a smorgasbord of freshly-made Lao specialities. Skewers of chicken and fish sizzled on huge grills, the charcoal embers glowing in the encroaching dark. White Styrofoam coolers bulged with icy-cold bottles of Beerlao. Vendors shouted and cajoled passersby to their stalls, enticing them with banana leaves covered in Laab, papaya salad and Lao-style sausages. For all the perfection of my meal at Tamarind, here was an equally delicious array of mouthwatering favourites, a uniquely Luang Prabang experience that materialized from a cloud of smoke.

The Sun Sets on Laos
Sunsets are a magical time of day in Luang Prabang, a time when shadows perfectly define the shapes of the beautiful colonial architecture and the town's golden rooftops are bathed in radiant light. It's the perfect hour to indulge in a sundown cocktail or snap some photos from one of the town's many scenic viewpoints.

The majority of sunset-hunters head for Phu Si, Luang Prabang's iconic hill. The peak of Phu Si offers 360-degree views of the city's majestic riverside setting and unique architectural treasures, set against a backdrop of verdant mountains. My second day in Luang Prabang I focused on climbing Phu Si, in search of the town's impressive view. After 15 minutes of huffing and puffing up the hill's winding staircase, I reached the top. The vistas extended in all directions, framed by the laconic Mekong River, the town’s elegant Royal Palace and a sprinkling of golden stupa domes extending to the horizon. The view was so great, I nearly fell over—not because of the setting, but because every tourist in Luang Prabang had the same sunset plans. It was time to find somewhere more quiet.

I wandered back down the hill and found myself drawn towards the banks of the Mekong, in search of solitude. The emptiness was a marked contrast to Phu Si, and the steamy air was thick with heat and the sound of throbbing cicadas. A few empty fishing boats quietly shuffled against their ropes in the lazy current. The quickly-darkening sky sighed with a final spectrum of soft purple and flaming orange. I let out a contented sigh. This was the sunset I had wanted all along.

Bowling for Cocktails
Luang Prabang is not a town for drinking. The local government has intentionally stunted late-night partying, forcing most watering holes to close by midnight. It helps to maintain Luang Prabang’s wonderfully placid environs; you can still hear the crickets chirping late into the night. But where do you go to enjoy a few cocktails after dark?

I soon discovered Hive, part of a string of bars that stretch along Kingkitsarat Road, just south of Phu Si hill. Hive’s mellow candle-lit tables out front transition to a warmly lit interior bar and a lush backyard garden out back, flanked by a jungle of tropical greenery. Added to the mix was a menu of tasty cocktails featuring Lao-Lao, the local firewater—a perfect antidote for those tired of drinking the ubiquitous Beerlao. Meanwhile an energetic soundtrack of house and indie rock hummed from the speakers. Hive’s slick setting managed to attract a buzzing mix of youngish backpackers with an older crowd of sophisticated drinkers.

The minute midnight hit, Hive closed shop and the fun was over. Or was it? I wasn’t ready to go home. That’s when rumours of a late-night bowling alley began circulating through the eager crowd of remaining revelers. With few other options, I corralled some new friends, and we made a beeline for the “secret” bowling spot.

The taxi driver knew where to go, dropping us at a darkened ramshackle structure on the outskirts of town. It didn’t look like much. But what other option was there? Inside, my impression changed. It was a scene of vintage Americana, a retro bowling alley thronged with late-night Westerners living it up. I spent the last hours of my night out downing giant Beerlao bottles, accompanied by the steady clunk of bowling balls and percussion of falling pins. Was it an authentic Lao cultural experience? Not at all. But Luang Prabang teaches you to roll with the punches, and this “secret” proved a whimsical and fun way to end my evening.

The bowling alley was typical of my discoveries; in the atmospheric environs of Luang Prabang, the best experiences are literally hidden right in front of you. Simply follow your senses and they’ll find you.

THE LIST
Tamarind www.tamarindlaos.com Ban Wat Nong, Old Town 856 020 777 0484
Hive Bar www.hivebarlaos.com Kingkitsarat, Old Town 856 020 537 7826
JoMa Bakery Café www.joma.biz Chao Fa Ngun, Old Town 856 71 252 292