AsiaLIFE

On a stopover or business trip in Bangkok and not sure where to go? Long-term resident Ellen Boonstra leads the way.

Sure, the Thai capital boasts a large number of magnificent temples (Grand Palace, Wat Pho, Wat Phra Keaw), but there’s an entirely hip and trendy side to Bangkok waiting to be discovered. With a bit of forward planning, you should be able to squeeze in a decent selection of what bustling Bangkok has to offer in the way of up-market shopping, delectable international cuisine and chic nightlife.

Shop Till You Drop

Get those early morning emails, phone calls and exercises out of the way and hit the shopping malls at 10am sharp, because you’ve only got 12 hours till closing time and a lot of ground to cover. Over the past couple of years, Bangkok has seen a wave of upscale mega-malls sprout up, each vying to outdo the other in glamour and magnitude. Current leader of the pack is Siam Paragon (“the pride of Bangkok”) with every imaginable fashion and luxury brand available. It also houses South-East Asia’s largest aquarium Siam Ocean World which kids will love (www.siamoceanworld.co.th). Coming in a close second is Central World. Touted as Southeast Asia’s biggest mall, it offers a variety of international designer brands. For more niche-targeted malls try Gaysorn for ultra-exclusive brands and one-off designer boutiques; Siam Centre and Siam Discovery Centre for local Thai brands and young designers; and MBK (Mah Boon Krong) for mobile phones, gadgets, DVDs, software, inexpensive clothing and imitation goods. All the shopping centres mentioned above are located in close proximity to one another in the central Chidlom/Siam Square area, and are easily accessible via Bangkok’s ever-efficient skytrain system (BTS).

If you’re longing for the more ‘ancient’ Siam with quaint markets and street vendors, you’ll find these present in abundance. Best-known is Chatuchak Weekend Market, Asia’s largest outdoor market. “If they don’t sell it there, it’s not in Thailand,” is the accurate claim. Crowded markets can get very hot during the day, even for those acclimatised to the heat, making Suan Lum Night Bazaar (open daily 6pm – midnight) a pleasant alternative. This market is ideal for picking up last-minute souvenirs such as silk cushion covers and scarves, and funky locally-designed clothing and jewellery, as well as a large variety of home décor and gift items. Another interesting option is Pratunam. Open daily from morning to late afternoon, you can find pretty much anything here from electronic gadgetry, t-shirts and children’s clothes, to formal evening wear and some of the most bizarre outfits – the place if you’re looking for a Halloween costume – all at rock bottom prices.

Bangkok’s Best Brunches

Crepes & Co (Sukhumvit Soi 12) is arguably the city’s most popular Sunday brunch spot (reservations strongly recommended). Open from 9am to midnight, this creperie features a wide selection of pancakes, salads and Mediterranean dishes, which can also be enjoyed in the restaurant’s lush garden. Picky eaters can even create their own crepe. Many of the city’s five-star hotels offer absolutely sumptuous all-you-can-eat Sunday champagne buffet brunches. Local residents favour the lavish spreads at Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit and the Four Seasons.

If you need to rest your weary feet from shopping in the Chidlom area, consider the Erawan Tearoom (Erawan Bangkok, Grand Hyatt). It serves up traditional Thai favourites like tom yam khung (sweet and sour soup with prawns) and mango sticky rice in the nostalgic atmosphere of a bygone era, with panoramic windows overlooking the revered Erawan Shrine. Try their high tea (2-6pm) for around 150 baht (US$4.75).

Dine Well

More authentic Thai cuisine can be found at the very affordable Cabbages and Condoms (Sukhumvit Soi 12) where dinner, as the name suggests, includes a free condom (proceeds of the restaurant’s meals go towards a NGO). Seating is in a beautiful garden area with lights adorning the trees, which gives the ambience a decidedly festive feel. Quite a few hidden treasures can be found in the midst of the busy Sukhumvit area. Those serving contemporary Thai cuisine include: Face Bar (Sukhumvit Soi 38), set in an exquisite wooden Thai traditional house; Mahanaga (Sukhumvit Soi 29), with its dining area made up of Moroccan-inspired pavilions surrounding a courtyard; or Wyndham Thai (Sukhumvit Soi 16), with its vibrant décor of contemporary paintings and sculpted lotus flower lights.

The JW Marriott hotel on Sukhumvit Road boasts two of the city’s best restaurants – New York Steakhouse and Tsu Nami. Like the Raffles in Singapore, the grand dame of hotels remains The Oriental, a must-visit if only for its famous Author’s Lounge – illustrious alumni include Graham Greene, Somerset Maugham and John le Carré.

Nightlife Delights

From the old-world charm of the Oriental Hotel it’s a short hop to the magical ambience of Sirocco (State Tower, Silom Road). This 64th floor open-air rooftop restaurant offers spectacular views of the Bangkok city skyline and Chao Praya River – absolutely not to be missed. Enjoy a balmy Bangkok sunset at the neon-tinted, circular Sky Bar. (Note: the restaurant strictly enforces a dress code of no flip-flops or shorts). Next door is lounge bar Distil where you can chill out while enjoying a single malt Scotch whisky and a Cuban cigar. Vertigo at the Banyan Tree (21/100, South Sathon Road, Sathon) is another wonderful place to go for drinks overlooking Bangkok by night.

Centred around Sukhumvit Soi 11 are several nightspots, most notably Bed Supperclub, the uber-trendy, spaceship-like restaurant and bar where hip Bangkok does anything but lay its head to rest. The menu is one of the best in town and reservations are recommended. Other stylish nightspots include The Met Bar (Metropolitan Hotel, on Sathorn Road), Bar Su (Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit Hotel) and the Syn Bar (Nai Lert Park Hotel on Wireless Road).

Ellen Boonstra can be contacted at This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it

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