AsiaLIFE

When most travellers think of Laos, they think of Luang Prabang its picture-perfect setting. Meanwhile, southern Laos, specifically Champasak Province, is rarely mentioned. The province, with the mighty Mekong running through the heart of its landscape, offers a combination of astounding natural beauty, spectacular waterfalls, friendly locals and delightful accommodation. Words by Thin Lei Win.

Southern Laos has for long been a destination only for intrepid travellers, due to the lack of infrastructure and five-star accommodation, but dotted with amazing finds for anyone willing to travel a little off-the-beaten track.  Quirky Pakse, the capital of Champasak, with three flights a week from Vientiane, and two a week from Siem Reap (Tuesday and Saturday), is the starting point for anyone wanting to explore southern Laos.

From the tiny airport to the two-lane highway, which regularly experiences traffic jams because a bridge into town only allows one vehicle at a time, Pakse has the look and feel of a sleepy provincial town.  Although you can visit all the attractions by taking day trips from Pakse, it is far more rewarding to explore these places as overnight stays on their own.

Chasing Waterfalls

For a landlocked country, Laos boasts an impressive number of rivers, streams and waterfalls, and at Champasak, you'll find some of the most dramatic falls (Tad in Lao). The first stop has to be the beautifully lush and fertile Bolaven Plateau, standing over 1,000 metres above sea level and home to a dozen or so ethnic minorities.

It is also where most of the country's coffee plantations and spectacular waterfalls can be found. The best known of the latter is Tad Fane, twin waterfalls located on the edge of the Dong Houa Sao National Protected Area and gushing down a 250-metre deep gorge in a thundering crescendo.  The best place to view Tad Fane is from Tad Fane Resort. Open for seven years this is one of the pioneering nature resorts in the country. They can arrange jungle trekking for those looking to add a little bit more action to their trip.

For a closer look at the falls and a more scenic stay, check out Tad Lo, a series of three gorgeous waterfalls made up of Tad Suong, Tad Lo and Tad Hang. The falls, just over an hour's drive from Pakse, are great for hiking and deserve at least one night's stay. Tad Hang is the lowest level fall, the smallest and gentlest and where most of the accommodation can be found. Saise Resort has rooms to fit any budget - from US$6 - but it's worth splashing out US$20 for an enormous room in a unique bungalow at the top of the fall.

From behind the guesthouse, walk a few minutes uphill and you'll be confronted with Tad Lo. It may only be 10 metres high, but the peaceful surroundings and the foams of water that rush over the long, beautiful granite wall is a sight to behold. It's possible to walk further uphill till the river plateaus and the torrent becomes a mere trickle - a favourite swimming spot with local children from nearby villages. Tad Suong is the most impressive of the three, but requires transport and a steady set of knees if you are planning to walk up to the top.

Cultural Treasures

Champasak Province is also home to some of the least visited - and hence still beautifully intact - ancient ruins. The two must-see places are Phou Asa Mountain in Xe Pian National Protected Area and Wat Phou in the former royal seat of Champasak town.

The 24,000-kilometre square Xe Pian, about one hour from Pakse, is one of the most important biodiversity areas in the region, known for its large mammals and rare water birds. Dump your bags at the charming Kingfisher Ecolodge overlooking the wetlands - if you can, splash out for the US$43 bungalows with massive hammocks and all-glass fronts - at Ban Kiet Ngong Village, located at the foot of Phou Asa before starting your adventure.

Elephant trekking to Phou Asa is part of the Mekong Development Tourism Project's (MTDP) plans to generate incomes for local communities. These graceful creatures gently transport you under the forest canopy, through lush rice fields and steep climbs with tantalising glimpses of the wetlands below and the shadows of Bolaven Plateau and the Annamite Mountains in the distance, until you reach the summit with stunning panoramic views.

At the end of the clearing is a set of stone pillars, made of flat stones piled on top of each other and standing around two metres in height. The origins of the site remain a mystery, with some believing it to be an ancient fortress of an Attapeu king while others say it's the remains of a temple. The hour-and-half elephant ride (100,000 Kip or US$10) can be arranged through tour companies, Kingfisher Ecolodge or the tourism office in Pakse. It's advisable to book in advance so that the elephants can be prepared for you. Otherwise be prepared to wait for an hour or so.

Wat Phou (30,000 Kip or US$3 entry) is more intact and believed to be one of the most impressive Khmer ruins outside Cambodia. Visitors awed by the sheer number of temples at Angkor Wat may find this UNESCO World Heritage site lacking in quantity, but Wat Phou more than makes up for it by evoking a true sense of peace and wonder. When we visited this pre-Angkorian temple dating back to the 9th and 12th centuries, there was only a group of giggly Thai ladies and local worshippers.

The tumbledown palaces along the wide walkway, the steep stone steps and the terraces, and the upper sanctuary lined with stone pillars and frangipani trees has the feel of a lost temple waiting to be found. The original Hindu temple was said to have been built at the top of a hill at the site of a fresh water spring and the view of the Mekong valley from the top is equally awe-inspiring. Wat Phou is around an hour and half from Xe Pian, 8km from the charming riverside town of Champasak and requires a ferry crossing.

The Serene 4,000 Islands

Sii Pan Don, more commonly known as 4,000 Islands, is the southernmost part of Champasak province, and so called because the mighty Mekong splits itself into numerous channels, forming islands of every imaginable size. Here, more waterfalls can be found, including the biggest in South East Asia.

Remote, untamed and bordering with Cambodia, the river spreads itself to a width of up to 14km during the rainy season. Bereft of tourist boats and peddlers (except at the Champasak town ferry crossing), for most of the time the boat trips are about you, the river and the friendly island dwellers who will run out of their houses to shout 'Sabaidee'.

The largest of these islands, Don Khong, is a truly chilled out place. The best way to see this beautiful island full of paddy fields and small winding roads along the riverbank is on a bicycle or a moped. Most travellers prefer the backpacker haven of Don Dhet or the activity-filled Don Khone. So Don Khong by default gives a better sense of how life is really like in the Mekong.

Small villages and numerous temples dot the island, and there are a few trekking options, but the biggest draw here is the chance to get away from it all - a perfect place to knock back a few G&Ts while enjoying the riverside scenery. The road to Dong Khong continues on to Khone Phapeng, known as "The Niagara of the East" and said to be the largest waterfall by volume in South East Asia. The falls, a kilometre wide and 30 metres deep, not only lets out a booming roar but also separates the upper and lower Mekong.

This geographical importance, which prevented the French from transporting goods from China to Vietnam through the Mekong bypass, and stupendous setting make Khone Phapeng a must-see in any tour itinerary. But a trip to the 4,000 Islands isn't complete without stopping at Don Khone, a small but surprisingly attraction-filled island - all of which are within well-marked walking distance - about half-hour boat ride from Don Khong.

It boasts an old disused French railway (built as part of the Mekong bypass route before realising the futility of their efforts), the smaller but even more breathtaking Lipii waterfalls (another one of the reasons for the French railway never taking off) and in summer, the chance to spot endangered Irrawaddy water dolphins. There are also several beautiful but sadly dilapidated French colonial buildings, one of which has thankfully been renovated as part of a resort.

Accommodation is restricted to a small part of the island and the idyllic village life, best explored by foot or bicycle, remains intact. The best place to stay is at Sala Phae, a small six-room guesthouse with bungalows that literally float on the water. All rooms have raised platforms with Thai cushions beside the windows for that unobstructed view of life on the Mekong. It's little wonder Don Khone has been called 'pure unadulterated Laos' by many a traveller, and with any luck, Southern Laos will remain as such - a land rich in both natural wonders and friendly locals that will leave indelible memories for those willing to venture further.

Getting There

Siem Reap Airways flies from Siem Reap to Pakse twice weekly for US$120 return. Vietnam Airlines flights to Vientiane. There are early morning flights (Lao Airlines) three times a week from Vientiane to Pakse (Wednesday, Friday and Sunday.)

Overland it's possible to cross into Laos from Cambodia. Sorya buses leave Phnom Penh for Stung Treng at 7am every day. The road has recently been improved and the journey takes 7 to 10 hours (US$??). You can also break up the journey in Kratie. From Stung Treng, either take a one-to-three-hour ferry trip, depending on water levels, to the river crossing at Koh Koh Chheuteal (US$5), or the minibus to the road crossing at Dom Kralor. Lao visas are not available at the border.

Accommodation

Saise Guesthouse
Tel: + 856 34 211 054 / +856 20 2 204 656
Located at Tad Hang, choose from basic US$6 rooms near the reception area to the top-end US$20 ones in a big, airy bungalow overlooking the waterfall.

Kingfisher Ecolodge
Tel: +856 30 534 5016
www.kingfisherecolodge.com
Beautiful solar-powered ecolodge overlooking the wetlands of Xe Pian National Park. Well thought-through, from the all-glass front and showers to the double bed and massive hammock on the balcony. Bungalows cost US$43.

Senesothxeun Hotel
Tel: +856 30 526 0578
www.ssxhotel.com
Located in Don Khong, this brand new, two-storey hotel overlooking the river has tasteful furnishings and excellent staff. Rooms start from US$40.

Sala Phae
Tel: +856 30 525 6390
http://salaphae.salalao.com
Using bamboo and hard wood, the floating rafts with private balcony and raised platform make the best place to enjoy the serenity of the Mekong. Rooms go for US$20.