AsiaLIFE

Most visitors to Maldives, a South Asian country of nearly 1,200 islands, bypass the capital of Malé in favour of the resorts. Exploring the often-overlooked city, Mai Lynn Miller Nguyen finds its charms merit a stopover.

White sand beaches, swaying palm trees and aquamarine sea. That’s the setting people come to Maldives to experience.

The Republic of Maldives may be Asia’s smallest nation in territory and population - with 298 square kilometres of land and under 400,000 people - but its reputation is great. Located off the coast of Sri Lanka, Maldives offers breathtaking tropical beauty, exotic aquatic life and a secluded atmosphere in the middle of the Indian Ocean.

“This is paradise,” I remark to a Maldivian friend upon arriving at one island resort’s stunning beach. “That’s what they say,” he replies with a shrug.

Of the country’s 1,190 islands, about 90 are resorts. Hydroplanes and speedboats wait at the airport to carry guests directly to pristine paradises both near and far.

But that’s not all to Maldives. Although surrounded by the same crystal clear waters, the urban capital of Malé feels worlds apart. Malé city comprises four islets, with the main part of the capital covering the whole of Malé Island. Crammed with cars, motorbikes and around a third of the Maldivian population, Malé is one of the most densely populated islands in the world.

Sunni Islam is the official religion of the country, which means the call to prayer can be heard five times a day throughout Malé. Forget sipping fruity cocktails on this island - alcohol is banned from everywhere in Maldives except for the resorts. Instead of bars, coffee shops are where friends gather to chitchat over cappuccinos. The only beach is known as the “artificial beach”, created with shipped-in sand, where women are more likely to be dressed in full clothing and veils than bikinis.

Although the island may not have the fun-in-the-sun vibe of the resorts, a trip to Malé is a must for those interested in encountering Maldivian culture.

The ambience is distinctly maritime, with boats bobbing in the harbour and the scent of sea salt in the air. The brilliance of the turquoise waters is matched by the brightness of buildings painted in sherbet shades of peach, blue, violet and peppermint. Narrow streets wind throughout the island, which can be circumnavigated via foot in about an hour.

I spend my first morning in Malé strolling around, passing by the Hukuru Miskiy (Friday Mosque), which was built in 1658 and is currently in consideration for UNESCO World Heritage nomination. There are several mosques throughout the island, but the stately, golden-domed Hukuru Miskiy is by far the most impressive. Inside, coral walls are engraved with Arabic writings and motifs.

The nearby National Museum provides an introduction to Maldivian history, encompassing the Buddhist era, the conversion to Islam in the 12th century, the years as a British protectorate from 1887 to 1965 and the recent period of modernisation. The trove of artefacts includes stone sculptures, royal furniture from the sultanates, exquisite editions of the Qur’an and the country’s first computer from the 1980s - a large bulky box that stands about five feet high. There’s also a massive skeleton of a rare Longsman’s Beaked Whale, discovered stranded on a beach in 2000.

My lunchtime port of call is The Hive, a restaurant located on the 10th floor of the Nalahiya Hotel. Though newly constructed high rises threaten the restaurant’s vista, it’s still one of the best places to look out at Malé. While waiting for my grilled prawns in garlic and butter—which turn out to be tender and flavourful—I head outside to the balcony for the 360-degree panorama, relishing the sight of water in all directions. The city’s radiant colours and compactness are all the more apparent from this bird’s eye view.

Reflected by the relatively high cost of dining, the vast majority of food in Maldives is imported. Fish is the main exception. Due to the abundance of the surrounding waters, seafood - predominantly tuna - comes in by the boatload each day, and the fish market is one of the island’s most lively spots. It’s a scene that is not for the squeamish, as sellers hack and gut fish in front of customers for ultimate freshness.

The commercial harbour on the northwestern side of the island is a popular place to promenade, and as dusk arrives in Malé, my friends and I buy coconuts from a simple roadside stall and sit on folding chairs next to the water. The setting sun creates a melange of bold hues, painting the sky like watercolours.

This setting feels like an idyll, but I learn that it could all become a paradise lost. Malé may one day become submerged like the lost city of Atlantis. As the lowest lying country in the world with most islands under 1.5 metres above sea level, Maldives faces the possibility of being engulfed by the ocean - a fear that was enhanced by the 2004 tsunami, which destroyed six islands and left more than 80 dead. President Mohamed Nasheed has established a fund to purchase land in India, Sri Lanka or Australia for Maldivians to relocate to in case their present country vanishes.

Whether or not the threat is as dire as some believe, there’s all the more reason to visit Maldives for more than lazy days beside the shore. Vibrant and distinctive, Malé Island is a destination worth visiting.