AsiaLIFE

Coinciding with the launch of our website, AsiaLIFE Guide has decided to sample some of the restaurants offering Khmer food around the globe. This month we go down under. Words by Adam Fitzgerald.

Those of you from Melbourne wanting to find Khmer food back home, try out Bopha Devi. This Aus-Khmer mini-chain has two up-market locations – one in Yarraville and the other in the ‘emerging’ Docklands. The latter venue is deceivingly small and intimate though it still manages to seat around sixty. With only three waiters on hand there is a sense of intimacy. The décor is tasteful and minimalist, with subtle hints of Khmer art hung on striking walls. The furniture though is not inspired by Cambodian styles – it’s comfortable and isn’t made of plastic or rattan! There is also a lack of paper serviettes and toothpicks on the table.

The pork spare ribs AU$13.90 made for an excellent starter. They arrived coated in caramelised palm sugar with shredded ginger on the side, and had a slight smell of Phnom Penh meat to them (think pork leg at 3am). The K’dom AU$12.90 – a chicken and crab meat roll of sorts – was not as satisfying, lacking any real flavour. The pumpkin filled parcels AU$9.90 are a sweat treat to start off your meal, consisting of creamy pumpkin wrapped in a wanton style pastry.

As for the mains, there was the ubiquitous fish amok. At AU$27.90, this is the most expensive item on the menu and one of the smallest. Though nicely presented in the traditional banana leaf, it didn’t hit the spot. The texture seemed to be slightly off – more pasty than curry. The Kari Khmer (Khmer curry) AU$19.90 however was excellent – hot while retaining all the flavour of the fresh vegetables. The K’nyei stir fry (beef with ginger) AU$22.90 was equally as good,  loads of fresh vegetables and just the right amount of ginger, thus not overpowering any of the other flavours in this subtle dish. The beef was tender and juicy – no bony Khmer cows here. The Lort Char AU$18.90, a stir fy with vegetables and chicken with noodles was quite run of the mill but, satisfying nevertheless.

As for desserts, the black rice crumble AU$10.90, a concoction of black, sticky rice topped with toasted coconut and caramelised palm sugar with ice cream on the side, was the perfect end to the meal. Bopha Devi offers a range of beers and spirits – no Angkor though – starting from AU$6, and a very long wine list with prices by the glass starting at AU$6.50.

The only Khmer restaurant in Melbourne, with great food and warm staff, Bopha Devi is more than enough for those who need a hit of Khmer food when they visit or return to Melbourne.

Bopha Devi, 27 Rakaia Way, Docklands 3008, Tel: 9600 1887; 27 Ballarat Street, Yarraville 3013, Tel: 9362 0941, www.bophadevi.com

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