Renovated from a school to a restaurant, Magnolia opened on the quiet earlier in the year. Combining sophistication with affordability, it serves up good, mainly Vietnamese, fare in a very pleasant setting.
Located on Street 51, Magnolia is fronted by spacious outdoor seating among leafy greenery. The décor is unpretentious and fresh, with the white walls ceding centre stage to the beautiful colonial-style tiles. The ground floor terrace and first floor balcony are lovely places to enjoy your meal. The jazz and classical music playing in the background further create a warm and unruffled atmosphere.
The menu is extensive. Kuy Teow noodle soups (around US$2) make a cheap breakfast option, along with a strong and satisfying iced coffee for US$1.20. The Vietnamese-style thick and syrupy hot coffee (US$1) is also delicious, though an acquired taste. Lunch is a buffet affair, with almost ten different dishes as well as fruit. At US$3, it’s a bargain, though vegetarians beware, you’re unlikely to get much on your plate. Theoretically, the buffet is open from 11am to 2pm. In practice however, the food is all but gone if you arrive after 1pm. For an extra dollar, you can finish your meal with Asian style desserts.
For dinner, your options seem limitless. Fish, squid, eel, frog, chicken, beef, and pork dishes all have their own page on the menu, with items costing around US$5 each. Prawn dishes are slightly more expensive at US$8, while the vegetarian options are bargains at US$2 to US$3. In addition, there are salads (US$4), soups (US$3), Vietnamese pancakes (US$3) and hot pots (US$10) to tempt you. The stir-fried shell fish in coconut milk (US$4) comes recommended, although it takes some effort to extract the snail-like creatures from their shells. The fried aubergine (US$2.50) and cauliflower in batter (US$3) are plain but tasty. The former simply melts in your mouth. Unfortunately the stir-fried squid with green pepper (US$5) was somewhat disappointing as the squid was rubbery and rather tasteless. The cocktails are surprisingly good and modestly priced at US$3. Though the dry martini comes with only one small olive, it achieves a good balance between the gin and the vermouth. The margarita is decoratively presented and not too strong. House special Magnolia Kiss is creamy and lush.
Magnolia has an abundance of courteous and attentive staff, who do not hover around you. English skills are also acceptable, and the waiter repeated our order to make sure he had taken it down correctly. WiFi is complimentary if somewhat slow. The comfortable seats and regular height tables nevertheless make surfing a pleasure. Also, if you come in the morning, you can have the place virtually to yourself up until lunchtime.
All told, Magnolia is a welcome lunchtime crowd pleaser. But it should not be overlooked for dinner, especially not if you’re into cocktails.
Magnolia, 55 Street 51, Tel: 016 944 493. Open 6.30am-10pm