
Well-known as a top-end Cambodian restaurant, Malis does not disappoint. Words by
Nora Lindstrom.
A serene statue of the Buddha in a beautiful al fresco setting welcomes you as you step into Malis restaurant off busy Norodom Boulevard. With trees and plants amidst water features set against earthen red walls, this Khmer cuisine restaurant run by well-known chef Luu Meng makes for a classy, yet not over-the-top chic, dining experience.
Comfortably seated, the meal starts off with a complimentary shot of mango juice and some pickles. Having perused the extensive menu, we try the clams with hot basil leaves (US$5.50) for an appetiser. A generous portion, the clams are unfortunately covered in a rather gravy-like, peppery sauce, which overpowers the delicate taste of the clams. Thankfully the side salad, complete with jasmine flowers, gives the dish a flowery freshness which complements to the clams perfectly.
For our main course, we opt for the spicy scallops with mint leaves (US$8.50). Pan -fried with lemon and spices, and served on a bed of cucumber and mint leaves, this dish is a winner. Though it could be spicier, the scallops are fresh and the salad makes for an intriguing combination of flavours. Continuing on the seafood theme, the Goby fish (US$11.80) is simply delicious. Marinated with lemongrass and garlic, and baked in a crust of salt, the fish is served whole. It comes with a tangy mango dip that complements the fresh, unadulterated flesh surprisingly well. Large enough to share, this is a dish not to be missed.
While dinner is comfortably enjoyed in the enclosed garden space, lunch is best enjoyed in the restaurant’s air-conditioned indoor spaces. Complete with no less than four courses, the set menu (US$12.50+) provides a delicious insight to both traditional and contemporary Khmer cuisine, and is large enough for two to share.
Overall, Malis comes out on top. The combination of a beautiful setting, attentive and knowledgeable service, deliciously presented food, and a creative showcasing of the richness of Khmer cuisine make the restaurant a winner.
Malis, 136 Norodom Boulevard, Tel: 023 221 022. Open for breakfast 7am to 10am, lunch 12pm to 2pm, and dinner 6pm to late.