AsiaLIFE

One of Phnom Penh’s longest running wine shops, Red Apron now features the addition of a restaurant. Mai Lynn Miller Nguyen explores the dining options. Photos by Conor Wall.

Though the sign above the entrance reads Wine Lounge, the second level of Red Apron serves more than Bordeaux and Sauvignons.

Wines are available in plenty both in the shop below and the recently opened upstairs area, but my venture to the Street 240 mainstay was focused on sampling the cuisine.

Upon reaching the top of the stairway, I walked into a space larger than I had anticipated. Tall ceilings amplified the effect, as well as a sizable lofted area in the middle room.

On the right, a group of men and women in suits were gathered around the bar for aprèswork drinks. A mixed clientele of Cambodians and foreigners occupied round tables in the central space.

My dining companion and I chose to sit in a room off the left side. White couches with low white tables gave the space a lounge feel, though the overall ambience evokes a sophisticated
apartment.

The menu offers a tantalising selection of “light bites and taste bud teasers” and “chef’s bulky bites”, created with a European approach.

After deliberating among several dishes that sounded equally appetising, I opted for grilled beef ribeye steak (US$10), whereas my dining companion went for a parmesan chicken filet with Serano ham and mashed potatoes (US$7).

Once the attentive server took our orders, I took a moment to admire the décor further. Contemporary art embellishes the stark white walls, featuring expressive, textured abstract works by Chhim Sothy curated by jGallery. Terracotta floors add a touch of warmth to the otherwise cool and modern interior design.

My observations were suspended by the approach of our overzealous server, replenishing our yet-unfinished breadbasket. She remained when my friend left the table, watching over me with a friendly smile.

Without much delay, the dishes arrived, each one arranged with artistic flair. Portions are tidy and petite, though suitable for the rich nature of most ingredients.

My steak was slightly on the chewy side yet made up in flavour what it lacked in consistency. A dollop of ratatouille and some sauce, drizzled attractively, were perfect complements. I snuck bites of my friend’s chicken, a succulent combination of savours with a smoky finish.

After we had finished our mains, the poached foie gras (US$15) we ordered as an appetiser arrived. Served with slices of apple, salt and olive oil, the dish resembled a surrealist Miró  ainting in composition. Buttery with a hint of cinnamon, the pâté was perhaps the best I have tasted in the city.

To end the meal on a sweet note, we ordered fine chocolate varieties (US$5), which arrived as four different bonbons on a small plate.

Cocktail devotees will be out of luck—Expect to spend an evening on the grapes, as Red Apron offers wine and wine alone. The upstairs area currently only serves by the bottle, though aperitifs by the glass can be ordered in the downstairs bar area.

Satiated with good wine and food, I headed out the door with every intention of crossing its threshold again soon.

Red Apron Wine Lounge, 15-17 Street 240, second entrance on Street 19, Tel: 023 990 951, Open daily from 4pm to 12am.