AsiaLIFE

What's a sub shop doing in Phnom Penh? Incredibly good business, it turns out. American-style sub shop Fatboy has quickly won a loyal following. Kate Liana digs in.

Submarine, hero, grinder, hoagie, po’ boy, torpedo – a sandwich by any other name may taste as good, but would tremble in the shadow of this enormous American staple. Originally named for their resemblance to submarines, this is no dainty affair. If you’ve never tried one for yourself, now’s the time – just head to the Fatboy on Street 130.

Arthur Avenue in the Bronx is well-represented by the hot meatball sub. The meatballs were hearty and delicious. Swimming in a tasty, rich marinara sauce and slivers of melted mozzarella, this won our hearts and stomachs. Heading down to New Orleans, the Cajun chicken sub was perfectly spiced with crisp, thick bacon. Overall it was a bit dry but solid. The Italian sausage sub was straight from San Gennaro's feast. The sausage had a great mellow, herbed flavour – the onions and peppers grilled soft but not mushy. Vegetarians will be appeased by the veggie delight, heaped with fresh, crisp vegetables, black olives, jalapenos and pickles, and any cheese or dressing you like.

You can make your own combo, choosing from a wide range of dressings, including red wine vinegar, Caesar dressing, whole grain mustard or hot sauce. Additional toppings include tuna, beef tenderloin, salami, and Swiss and feta cheese. Caesar is the lone salad, but any sub can be made into a salad or wrap.

Fresh baked on the premise, the bread is chewy, soft, and substantial. It soaks up the sauce, but doesn't fall apart. Choose between white and multigrain. Six-inch subs are around US$4-5, and foot-longs go for US$6-8. Skip the cookies, and get your calories from US$1 Beer Lao or Anchor.

The service was friendly, helpful, and quick and the decor is your classic sub shop, with fluorescent lighting and shiny countertops. With no tables – just a counter running along the wall with stools – this is not one for intimate dinner dates, but perfect if you're alone or with mates.

Fatboy Subs, 124 Street 130.