AsiaLIFE

Do you eat enough vegetables?  Bloody Marys don't count.  Nor do the mint sprigs in a Mojito, or the sprinkled chives atop your eggs benedict.  Tucked into the north side of Sihanouk Boulevard in a leafy villa, K'NYAY (Khmer for ginger) is one of the most pleasant spots in town for a quiet, intimate meal that will leave you full, satisfied, and healthy.  Before you run screaming for the nearest steak joint, be assured they also offer beef, fish and chicken in addition to vegan fare.

Kicking off the evening was the mixed bean, peanut and mint dip.  A truly unique dish and a favorite, it features a thick, coarsely chopped mix of beans, celery, cucumber, peppers and peanuts.  The mild, nutty flavor of the beans came through strongly and the peanuts were blended in well and didn’t overpower while also giving a bit of crunch.  The mint was faint but there.  Served with vegetables crudite, it was well-sized and at US$2 a steal and perfect for sharing.

The roasted pears in the roast pumpkin and pear salad were delicious, the smoky flavour a perfect foil for the pear’s natural sweetness.  The long strips of pumpkin were nice and sweet, if a bit dry.  All are tossed haphazardly with romaine, batavia, and minuet greens, in a tasty mustard vinaigrette, so not the most visually appealing but the flavours blended together exceptionally well.  Mango and beetroot gave the K'NYAY salad more colour, using the same greens and vinaigrette.  Thin strips of raw ginger were a sharp and exquisite surprise, giving the salad a wonderful kick.   

The sweetness of the carrot in the carrot and coriander soup almost overpowered, but was reined in by the savoury notes in the stock.  Rich and sweet, the flavour worked but lacked depth, though I'd be happy with this on a cold, winter day.  Just not sure when we'll see one of those.  The roasted red pepper soup was rich and smooth, and the acidic bite of pepper kept the flavour bright and strong.  

Though we were quite full at this point, we welcomed the red fish curry in a spicy, mellow broth delicately spiced with star anise, cumin, tumeric and chili.  The eggplant, green beans, onion and pumpkin were all cooked to perfection, tender but firm.  The fish was stiff but exceptionally fresh. The sweet potato and peanut stew was enjoyed immensely by the table.  The sweet potatoes were a tad undercooked, but the onions and peppers had good texture.  The peanuts, cooked soft and tender were especially nice.  The flavour was earthy and savoury, though a bit of spice wouldn't hurt.   

Food arrived in good time, and the only sour note was the wine.  One in our party had a glass of fizzy and vinegar-tasting red wine, which was happily replaced with another just as bad. The staff were friendly and helpful, and so accommodating they made no fuss that we stayed two hours past closing time, not that we noticed.  The warm lighting and relaxed atmosphere encourage slow, leisurely meals, and the staff went out of their way to make us feel at home.  In addition to being Cambodia's first vegan restaurant, this was one of the owner's main goals.  Indeed, with the intricate iron-work, screened lamps, and comfortable seating, the decor is exceptionally nice and adds to the experience.  

Overall the food was delicious, though a tad more spice or pungency would round out the overall culinary experience.  Ingredients were exceptionally fresh, even the salad greens were incredibly crisp, and the vegetables were cooked to perfection.  Thick, crumbly whole wheat bread was another pleasant surprise, along with the tasty wild rice, a nice change of pace from the steamed white stuff.  Most impressive, executive chef Run continuously experiments to craft vegan versions of Khmer favourites, while flavour and texture are never sacrificed.  With quality and freshness that's hard to match, especially at those prices (US$2-US$4 for starters, US$5-US$6 for main dishes), go make your mother happy and eat your vegetables.