AsiaLIFE

Hectic, unruly and genuinely Khmer, the area around Orussey Market is a real treasure trove for those hunting for fabrics and bicycles. Nora Lindstrom takes a look.

The streets around Orussey teem with life. The whole area comes across as one massive bazaar as the market spills out to the adjacent buildings and beyond. Rubbish, potholes and chaotic traffic are de rigueur while goods are packed and unpacked everywhere. This is a place of business, not a tourist market. That said, some of Phnom Penh’s oldest guesthouses are also to be found in the area, catering to some very seasoned budget travellers.

Fantastic Fabric

In true local style, vendors of the same goods have monopolised sectors around the market. The northern end of Street 113 is lined with shop after shop selling similar textiles – most also offer basic tailoring services. The stock includes a large amount of patterned synthetic fabrics as well as heavier cotton materials.

A tailored shirt can be yours for a mere US$5 (fabric included) while custom-made trousers can be had for as little at US$3. English skills are very limited, meaning that anything beyond straightforward designs might not turn out quite as anticipated. Bear in mind that while many of the patterned fabrics are simply gorgeous, as a rule they are not made from cotton and can translate into hot and sticky garments.

Running vertically on the western side of the market, Street 141 hosts a row of fabric shops. Most have a wider and better selection of textiles than their counterparts on Street 113. Here you can find chiffon, silk and both light and heavy cotton, as well as patterned textiles for a range of prices. Not all of the shops offer tailoring services, so it’s advisable to take your newly-acquired fabric to a recommended tailor to ensure the right cut.

If you are more interested in something ready-made, the streets immediately south of the market are home to several vendors of used clothing imported from overseas. Prices are rock bottom from around 2,000 riel per item, but it takes some serious sifting through to find anything wearable. Should you fancy yourself as a tailor, head for Streets 109 and 166 in the north-eastern corner of the market for sewing machines and accessories.

Things for Two Wheels

Get on your bike to Street 107, and adjoining streets, if it is bicycles or bike accessories that you are after. Here used bikes, ranging from the typical Japanese silver model to colourful kids’ wheels and more expensive mountain bike look-a-likes, are sold in vast numbers. Perfectly decent city bikes cost around US$30. It’s worth haggling and looking around. Once you’ve settled on both bike and price, make sure all accessories – functioning bell and lights, pedals, metal basket (the plastic ones break very easily) and lock – are added free of charge. Also note that some bikes considered less stylish can be cheaper simply because they don’t fit current fashion standards for two-wheelers. Don’t forget to purchase a helmet! Should you be going further a-field, the Mekong Express bus station is located in the southwest corner of the market, by the flower vendors.

Old-fashioned Charm

Capitol Guesthouse, at the corner of bike street and Orussey Market is a famed old-timer. Opened in 1991, the guesthouse seems a relic from the era when Phnom Penh was still ‘Off the Rails’. Rooms start at US$3. Despite the bargain basement price they are relatively clean on the backpacker scale, while the restaurant serves basic, if unremarkable, Khmer fare. Capitol also organises a variety of day trips that are good value for lone travellers. All trips require a minimum amount of participants and the sign-up sheets at the guesthouse are empty most of the time. Groups are generally better off organising trips for themselves – the ‘sunset on the Tonle Sap’ cruise costs US$6 per person for a minimum of six. Capitol also operates reasonably priced buses to several destinations in Cambodia and beyond.

A stone’s throw south of Capitol, Bites Restaurant stands out from most of the others in the Orussey area, with its table cloths and pretty lights. Serving US$2-US$3 Malaysian, Khmer, western and halal food from 7am to 10pm, this is the classiest place to eat in the neighbourhood. Next door is Dragon Guesthouse with rooms from US$6, as well as a balcony restaurant with a comprehensive menu of inexpensive Asian and western dishes.

Health and Happiness

Running horizontally north of the market, Street 166 is the place to head for your fix of Khmer traditional medicine. Lush-smelling selections of roots, powders, bark, dried shells and starfish are sold out of big hampers to cure all ailments. You can also get ready-made mixes sold in packages featuring smiling, happy couples – perhaps these are meant to sort your love-life out? It’s difficult to know as the vendors regard you with suspicion and don’t speak any English.

Finally, Sing Veng Her Café Special, at 64 Street 182, sells freshly ground coffee beans from Cambodia, Laos, Vietnam and Brazil. A kilo of these butter-roasted beans are yours from US$5/kg for Mondulkiri coffee. Add a large Vietnamese-style coffee drip (2,000 riel) and you are set for that essential early morning caffeine kick.