AsiaLIFE

When we last saw our intrepid streetwalker, she was snoozing outside La Croisette attempting to traverse the riverside and tell its tale. See how the story ends for Kate Liana.

If you tire of people-watching outside La Croisette, the interior decor is an eclectic mix. A French-Moroccan theme with beaded curtains is offset by Lichtenstein prints and a homage to Hunter S. Thompson. Excellent food, occasional live music and free WiFi keep patrons happy. The next few spots follow a similar formula of rattan chair + happy hour + non-frightening food that attracts both tourists and the vendors who love them. On the Corner has cheese and beef fondue, and a very happy hour that runs until 9pm. Kandal House offers paintings by a local Khmer artist and Veiyo's sign announces it is Cambodian-owned for the benefit of Cambodian children – same same, but with a conscience.

Next door is a coffin shop. Beautifully crafted, dragons and griffins are popular designs for your final vessel. You can choose carved or painted, though if your friends catch you perusing the stock don't be surprised if they ask for any money they have lent you. If you think you'll live through the night, there are DVDs galore next door at US$1.50 a pop to keep you entertained. If you're hovering between life and death, rejuvenate at U & Me Spa with a 15 percent discount on packages and select massages, facials and body treatments.

Moving along, it's Cadillac Bar, just rolling on the river as the sign declares. It’s built a loyal following with excellent gumbo, ribs, red beans and rice, and Texas chilli. Throw in great staff, music, laid-back atmosphere, and free internet for customers, this is a home away from home for many Americans. Keep rolling along to Chill for something new on the sweet front. Serving some of the finest homemade ice cream in town, it offers daily sundae specials that combine unique flavours. Now ice cream cakes are also on offer. At US$12.50 each, these flower-shaped beauties are custom made – order two days ahead – and feed six to eight people, or 10 kids, so keep in mind for birthdays. Right next door, El Mundo offers an upstairs lounge that can be rented for groups for film screenings. The menu has a wide variety of western dishes, along with Thai, Vietnamese, Khmer or Chinese dishes, including excellent homemade desserts such as apple crumble and almond muffins. Friendly, knowledgeable staff round off the experience. Paragon Hotel next door offers small, basic rooms for US$17-38, depending on size and whether with or without windows. Cheap and cheerful, the rooms are clean and nicer than some other budget options on the river.

Hop along to Perfume City. The gang's all here – Burberry, Givenchy, YSL, and Anna Sui to name a few. Whether it's the real deal is questionable. Don't bother asking staff the prices, since they'll tell you every bottle is "100 dollars". A glance with your own eyes will reveal Versace's signature scent at US$76 for 75ml, and Moschino's younger, casual line at US$57 for 50ml. Men can brag they own a Ferrari, at just US$46 for 75ml of the manly scent. Kiwi Bakery has a long menu offering all kinds of food and drink, western and Asian, along with homemade baked goods, including pies and croissants. Free internet and wine by Celliers D'Asie are an unexpected bonus.

Head down the block to Mekong River Restaurant and sit down to breakfast, a steal at 11,000 riel. They show documentaries on Cambodia up to five times a day, and offer a pleasant spot to catch up on international and local papers, and watch the world wander by. Newcomer Jazz Rock Café does not yet offer live music but hopes to soon. In the meantime they show all kinds of sport and live concerts on their huge TV. Come between 5pm and 8pm for US$1 Anchor.

Funky Frog and Shamrock offers US$8 rooms, cheap pub grub, western, Thai, and Khmer food, pizza, meat pies and daily specials. Employing local artisans Khmer Silk offers a pretty, eclectic range of silk and woven bags by KNN Cambodia Arts & Crafts. Reasonably priced men's ties, purses, wallets, ornaments, scarves and pillows are available as well. Cashew, shortbread, macaroon and biscotti-style cookies are all on offer at Camory Cookies for around US$1 for three. With free samples of most of the products available simply chomp away. The large, specially decorated cookies run at US$2, while gift baskets range from US$35-80. The higher priced ones include wine, honey, tea and chocolate as well.

If booty shaking ever becomes an Olympic sport, you can find some eager contenders at Riverhouse Lounge. The Penh's prodigious party promoters bring in international DJs, and put on special theme-nights weekly, so check out the schedule. Step into a little oasis upon entering Le Quay. The downstairs restaurant features wooden floors, birch trees, a mini-pond with fountain and plants for a truly calming, transporting experience. The fresh sushi and wine from Quarto Products are discounted during the L'after work promotion – 5pm-8pm Monday-Friday. Knock back some Deveaux Champagne at US$60 a bottle and imagine you're the Sugar Plum Fairy from The Nutcracker Suite – just don't get carried away and try your moves on the marble bar. Float upstairs to Amara, and the fantasy continues. With tile floors, wood and leather massage beds, and low lighting, the elegant spa uses Comfort Zone products from Italy, and sells Sukhita products from Thailand downstairs. The roof has a jacuzzi, sauna and steam room, along with a rooftop available to rent for parties.

You've made it. Cross the finish line and sink into Café Fish. Stylish and attractive, the decor is New York City chic with a dash of Cape Cod. Nibble the spicy crisps while you scan the menu for ocean-y delights. Lunch and dinner can be caught here. Along with the good wine selection, and friendly, attentive staff, this is why Fish is fast becoming one of the Penh’s favourite catches.