AsiaLIFE

Stretching from Central Market across all ring roads to well out of town, Kampuchea Krom is one of the city’s major thoroughfares with traffic to match. Quintessentially Phnom Penh, it features a hodgepodge of everything, including some interesting architecture. Nora Lindstrom explores.

Neither walking nor driving along Kampuchea Krom is particularly enjoyable, as every possible mode of transportation – motos, cyclos, pedestrians, cars and tour buses – come at you from every direction. At times you may fear for your life, but that is all part of the Phnom Penh experience.

Central Market to Monivong Blvd.

The first stretch from Central Market is lined with hairdressers. Prices are minimal, so you may want to splash out on the more top end Socheat Life Style Salon, where cuts start from US$3. Not for those who fuss over their tresses, if you simply want to get rid of your split ends, you might as well let them have a go. Most places also offer manicures and pedicures. Afterwards, pop into M Collection a few doors up and check out the cool, retro frocks ranging from US$25.  

Lovers of coffee and WiFi shouldn’t miss Café Sentiment at the corner with Monivong Boulevard. Set on three floors with air-conditioning and comfortable seats, as well as plenty of electric sockets, the coffee is cheap and the internet free. Morning coffee with a fresh croissant will set you back a mere US$1.20, making the capital’s mock-Starbucks fantastic value for money. It’s open from 7am to 11pm.

Across Monivong is the multi-storey DS Shopping Mall. Apart from a large selection of kids’ clothes and toys, there is nothing of particular interest to draw you here. Olibelle Beauty Centre is on the top floor, offering various expensive (US$22 to US$180) beauty treatments using BelleWave and Oligodermie products. Back in the bustle of the street, be sure to look up and admire the yellow apartment building on the opposite corner. Now sadly covered in advertisements, the building’s architectural beauty is still evident. Singapore Opticians is on the ground floor. This offers free eye tests and lenses from US$11, depending on your prescription. You can also opt for shaded lenses. Frames start from around US$20 or from US$50 for designer ones. Open from 8am to 7pm, make sure to ask for the 10 percent discount.

Beyond Monivong

Lining both sides of this wide four-lane street, small shops sell bread and pastries as well as cakes in all sizes from a tea plate to several-storey-high creations that should require planning permission. Prices vary, but expect to pay over US$5 for a decent sized cake. You can also ask for your own inscription to be glazed on, but be warned that few bakers speak much English.

The find of Kampuchea Krom is Khov Chong Ly’s shop at number 148. The selection of guitars is the best in town. You can get yourself a dusty Vietnamese acoustic guitar for US$5, or spend over US$200 on a cool electric one. All the guitars are second hand, and come mainly from neighbouring countries, even as far away as Japan. You can also get cases, amps, and electric keyboards, while bumping into local recording artists.

The corner with Street 109 is where the roasted pigs hang out – although you might find it hard to lick your lips in anticipation seeing them suspended in glazed orange by the roadside. The architecture on this strip, specifically the run down but beautiful apartment buildings with identical balconies and rounded corners, is particularly noteworthy. 

After Street 109, Kampuchea Krom is lined with shop after shop selling car and motorcycle parts. Difficult as it is to see how any of them can make any profit given the stiff competition, the amount of traffic passing by may just mean there are enough customers for all. In between the various local fashion shops that are probably best avoided is BabyWorld, which stocks most things related to infants. Buy yourself a buggy, or just get that cute baby next door a toy to bite on.

Then take your kids to Sydney Mall, where there is a good-sized children’s playground on the upper floor. For 1,500 riel, you can let your kids run amok among slides, balls and other fun things, while you take up your watching brief on the sofa. It is open from 8.30am to 8.45pm. If it is either some books or stationery that you are after, there is a branch of IBC further along at the corner with Nehru Boulevard. This stocks the same range of goods as at the main branch on Monivong Boulevard.

KK at Night

Traffic never abates on Kampuchea Krom, although it does seem to increase in speed incrementally as night falls. Most shops start closing with sunset, while the flickering neon lights of clubs with names like Happy Hearts and Emperor are turned on. These clubs seem to possess Lexus-attracting magnets given the large number of SUVs parked outside into the wee hours. It’s anyone’s guess as to what goes on indoors. A number of street kitchens also spring up as if from nowhere. However the general dirt and lack of atmosphere makes you wonder why anyone would choose to eat at them.