AsiaLIFE

Mao Tse Tung Boulevard may seem a world away from central, trendy Phnom Penh, yet it’s dotted with unique and curious establishments worth a visit. Just avoid it at rush hour. Words by Nora Lindstrom.

It’s questionable if Chairman Mao would be pleased with the boulevard named after him in Phnom Penh. Neither red in colour nor bedecked in stars and sickles, commercial enterprises line both of its sides. Its length and width might however score some points with the chairman, as they make it perfect for military parades.

In the north of the city, Mao Tse Tung Boulevard starts it journey south through the capital at Russian Boulevard. There’s nothing of interest on the first part of the boulevard, until you hit Psar Damkor on your left. Massive and busy both night and day, few foreigners venture into this wholesale market. Rumour however has it that some of the cheapest long-distance taxis going south can be hired here. Simply turn up early in the morning and bargain yourself a ride to Kep for as little as US$25. Some knowledge of Khmer is useful in the bargaining process. Next in line is Chenla Theatre, located on the grounds of Phnom Penh Cultural Centre, at the junction with Monireth Boulevard. The multifunction theatre can seat up to 600 people, and can be hired for conferences, performances and film screenings. Amrita Arts and the French Cultural Centre have events arranged for August. Next door, is the Crystal Dome, one of the most sought after places in town to organise an upscale wedding.

Regency Square

A strip of luxury beckons across the big intersection of Mao and Monireth Boulevards. Immediately on your left is the newly opened Club White, a fashionable and modern club looking to bring a new level of sophistication to clubbing in the Penh. Open from 8pm every night, it hosts special club nights every second Saturday. Across the street is Scoop Restaurant, another predominantly modern and white venue. With dishes on both sides of US$10, but more often above, it’s one of the more refined places in the capital. Homemade pasta is an obvious draw, and the desserts, with names such as “profiteroles to fall in love with” (US$4.50), are likely to leave you smiling and satisfied. In addition to semi-private booths, three private rooms are also available. Open daily 11am to midnight.

Coca restaurant next door may not be quite as chic, but the Cambodian branch of this Asian restaurant chain is not to be overlooked. Specialising in Thai suki soups, diners can choose between different base stocks. The large menu also features several other Thai and Chinese dishes, mostly for very reasonable prices around US$3-US$5. The place is clean and well organised. Open 6am to 9pm. Next up is the imposing InterContinental Hotel. Ranked as one of the top hotels in the capital, it has a relaxed if slightly sterile lobby and two in-house restaurants. The Regency Café offers Sunday Champagne Brunches with free flowing champagne for US$38+. Rooms at the hotel start from US$150 per person per night, and go up to several thousands. The Clark Hatch Fitness Centre complete with swimming pool is also open to non-guests, for daily fees from US$8. This is one of the best gyms in town. Should you be in a hurry to leave, the Thai Airways office is located at the southern corner of the hotel? It’s a pretty relaxed place and avoids having to negotiate the capital’s bucket shops.

Parkway Mall

Most of what follows after Regency Square is of interest only to those with a serious penchant for DIY. Things get more exciting after the Chinese Embassy at the corner of Street 173, however. Spark nightclub, located almost opposite, is local party-goers’ mecca. Complete with flashing neon light beams and pumping music, weekend nights are when to head there for a party with the locals. Open daily 9am to 2pm. Parkway Mall next door has the air of a mall that time forgot. The largely empty place is dusty and grey with a tucked-away food court but no vendors. Even so, it’s worth having a closer look at what the remaining establishments in the mall have to offer.

On the ground floor, Parkway Health Club has a good-sized covered swimming pool, and a large, air-conditioned gym with aerobics classes. Currently under renovation, the place remains open. Staff insist the renovation of the changing rooms and installation of steam saunas will be completed “last month”. Entry is US$8, or US$50 for ten tickets and monthly rates are also available. Open 5.50am to 9.30pm. On the first floor of the mall, La Belle sells quality underwear, though prices are high and sizes small. Love Power Coffee Café has a fake country look and would look cute anywhere but hidden away in a dingy mall. One floor up is where the entertainment starts. Pool and snooker tables, bumper cars and simulation golf are some of what’s on offer. More excitingly, there is ten-pin bowling complete with computer screens calculating the score. On weekdays, a game will set you back US$2 and shoes are free, however at weekends you will have to fork out between US$6 and US$9 per hour plus another US$1 for shoe rental. Still, it’s a fun and different way of spending an evening with some friends.

Back into the sunshine and continuing east, Tonle Bassac Restaurant is located at the corner with Street 163. A veritable cornucopia, Tonle Bassac hosts all-you-can-eat buffets with all and any foods you can imagine, competing for space on a multitude of tables. Like at any buffet, it’s difficult to know where to start or finish, but it’s a good idea to take advantage of the fresh, barbequed seafood. The desserts on the other hand are rather disappointing. Don’t bother saving space for them. The buffet costs US$14.50 per person and bookings are recommended. Further on, there is a small blue sign saying ‘Modern Tailor’ above an alley way opposite the wat. This is where the famous Monica makes clothes for half of Phnom Penh’s expats. As her reputation has increased so has waiting times and prices, but she remains one of the best bets for quality tailor-made clothes.

Finally, at the corner of Street 143 is what must be a bit of heaven for most kids – the Toys & Me shop. Boys are likely to appreciate the shelves full of various racing cars, while parents will like the good selection of ‘learning’ games. Girls are left slightly out as there are no Barbie dolls for sale, but who says girls like Barbies anyway? There is also an impressive range of small and large (try 7.3m x 3.6m) paddling pools. Open 8am to 8.30pm.