AsiaLIFE

As one of the main arteries of Phnom Penh, Monivong Boulevard plays a crucial role in getting travellers through the city. Some interesting establishments also line the thoroughfare – just don’t try to get to them during rush hour. Words by Nora Lindstrom.

Monivong Boulevard begins its journey south through the capital from the roundabout by the Japanese Bridge. The knotted gun monument in the middle of the roundabout was erected in 1999 following a government-led purge of guns. Though similar to famous knotted gun artwork by Swedish artist Reuterswärd, Phnom Penh’s symbol to non-violence is slightly different in design and not made by the artist.

Past the French Embassy, the Phnom Penh Hotel comes up on your right. Generally considered as one of the Penh’s more top-end hotels, it is surprisingly affordable. The handsome rooms start at US$80 for single occupancy and US$90 for double, and go up incrementally to US$180. Stay at the hotel includes free use of the pool and gym, as well as complimentary breakfast. Non-guests can also make use of the facilities. Lazing by the good-size pool for a day will set you back US$6, while access to gym and pool costs US$12. The hotel also has a number of restaurants, including recently renamed Bua Khmer. From the new menu, you can choose between a variety of Southeast Asian dishes, all affordable at around US$3 to US$6 per item. Bua Khmer is open 11am to 2.30pm and 5pm to 10pm. Zen Japanese Restaurant is also located in the hotel. Its wooden décor gives it a rather Scandinavian feel, though the menu is exclusively Japanese. The sushi melts in your mouth and the set menus are good value for money at around US$10 toUS$12. Zen is open 10am to 2pm and 5pm to 10pm.

A stone’s throw further south, Le Seoul offers Korean fare in a stylish setting. Get your regular dose of bibimpap (US$6) or bulgogi (US$6) or splash out on more the more expensive meat barbeques. As the restaurant only has a dozen or so tables, staff recommend making dinner reservations. Open 11am to 2.30pm and 5pm to 10pm. If luxury is what you are after, Café Monivong, located at Raffles Hotel le Royal, is not to be missed. The restaurant is famous for its daily dinner buffets which, depending on the theme of the night, cost between US$25+ and US$28+. Regardless of which night you go, the tables are jam-packed with delicious food and you will have to put serious effort into restraining yourself to make it through to the desserts. On Sundays, a brunch buffet (11.30am to 2.30pm) with free flow of Singapore Sling is yours for US$26+. It may seem expensive, but it’s worth it.

Pharmacie de la Gare, located at the corner of Street 110 by the railway station, has for years been the go-to pharmacy for expats and travellers. If you can’t find your remedy of choice here, it’s unlikely you’ll find it anywhere in Cambodia. Compared to recent, more modern-looking competitors, the shop comes across as old school and a bit poky. Nevertheless, it has a good selection not only of medicines but also of various quality health and beauty products, at affordable prices. Open 7am to 7pm, Sundays 8am to 12pm.

For less commonly available food items, such as comfort food from home as well as luxury items like truffles, try Thai Huot and Bayon supermarkets are between Street 118 and Kampuchea Krom Boulevard. Both stock rarities from faraway lands, such as Emborg rollmops and foie gras in Thai Huot, and a wide selection of Japanese food items in Bayon. The supermarkets are open 7.30am to 8.30pm and 7am to 8pm respectively. Heading further south, a branch of popular Café Sentiment is located at the corner of Monivong and Kampuchea Krom boulevards. Next door you can get your fast food fill at Kentucky Fried Chicken – the first branch of the fast expanding chain. For junk food local style try Lucky Burger at the corner of Street 217.

Across the street from Lucky Burger there are a number of shops selling sports equipment, from table-tennis tables, through free weights, to boxing gloves and trampolines. If sit-down activities are more up your street, don’t miss out on the Penh’s largest branch of the International Book Centre (open 8am to 8pm), or alternatively try the Peace Book Centre at the corner of Street 214 (open 8am to 8pm). Another to make note of is Ginga, one of the better Japanese restaurants in town. It has a proper sushi bar with chefs at work, as well as private booths and rooms in a clean and pleasant space. The extensive menu features everything from à la carte sushi, through teppanyaki to several set menus. The range of sake is also broad. Try the sushi set (US$16+) for a full meal featuring sushi, tempura and noodle soup, as well as fresh fruit for afters. Green tea is complimentary with every meal. Open 11am to 2pm and 5.30pm to 10pm.

Finally, should you fancy getting two-wheels to help you discover Monivong as well as the rest of the city, stop at New! New! or Lucky! Lucky!. The two almost identical rental shops offer 160cc scooters and 250cc motorbikes starting from US$3 per day. Monthly rates are also available from US$55, and some motos are also for sale. No driving license is required, but you need to bring your passport to rent a bike. New! New! is open 7am to 7pm, and Lucky! Lucky! from 8am to 6pm.

Monivong Boulevard south of Sihanouk Boulevard will be covered in the next issue.