AsiaLIFE

Sihanoukville mixes the industrial and the idyllic. While better known as the home of pristine beaches that dot its coast off the Gulf of Thailand, the town also serves as a commercial shipping hub with the country’s only deepwater port. Nowhere is this combination of industrial and idyllic more apparent than when gazing across the gulf where container ships overshadow brightly painted fishing boats, jerry-rigged floaters taking divers to adjacent islands and the occasional stark white cruise ship docked for the night.

But pleasure is the modus operandi of the area where rest and relaxation draw families wishing to escape the capital for a weekend jaunt or beach bunnies touring their way around Southeast Asia. The diversity of expectation is evident in the range of services and businesses catering to different needs. The prolific number of bar shacks and bungalows perch somewhat precariously on the beachfront. The town has a range of karaoke clubs, restaurants and bars, and an occasional casino that seems to spring up with ever-increasing intensity, in contrast to the general sleepiness of the area. This dynamic is clear in the popular Occheuteal Beach spanning the blocks southeast of the Golden Lions Circle with businesses clustered along gridded streets.

Mekong Express offers deluxe bus services to Sihanoukville twice daily at 7.45am and 2.30pm. Departing from the riverfront in Phnom Penh, a one-way fare is US$7 per person. Half a dozen other bus and taxi companies run from the capital with trips varying from four to six hours depending on the company used, to traverse the 230 kilometres via National Road 4.

Going for Gold

The Golden Lions are monumental, suggestive of Jeff Koons with a Cambodian twist. In their gilded glory they provide a central landmark that orients visitors to Sihanoukville. As a traffic roundabout, it dovetails between Ochheuteal, Serendipity and Sokha beaches. At dusk, hawker stalls spring up from across the roundabout to sell sugar cane juice, soft drinks and snacks – mostly to teenagers hanging out in groups or motodops waiting for a fare. All are illuminated by the nearby billboards that provide rare overhead lighting.

Like most other towns and cities in the country, there is no real centre making the Golden Lions one of the few prominent, visual markers. It is also the starting point of the major arterial route of Ekreach Street that stretches across Sihanoukville. The rest of the town unfolds across a wide swath of land through capillary roadways that diverge from Ekreach, including those leading to the area’s beaches. Wandering the area by foot can be taxing so renting a motobike is one way to facilitate the task of getting around (daily rentals US$5-7). There is an official ban on foreigners renting motorcycles, though enforcement appears to be cyclical. With the traffic much more forgiving than in Phnom Penh, riding motos can be manageable for the uninitiated. The alternatives are the ubiquitous motodops and tuk-tuks.

Heading west from the traffic circle the Golden Sands Hotel and Casino, located between Kanda and Tola Streets is a popular lodging option with Cambodian families and Asian tourists. Though the beach is only 150 metres away, the hotel pool provides an alternative site for sunbathing, swimming and drinking with chilled cocktails and fruit shakes from US$1-3. Another option further down Tola Street is Orchidée Guesthouse, which also has a pool with lounge chairs. A buffet breakfast of cheese, eggs, fresh bread and coffee is included in the cost of the room. The eclectic décor is in line with its conversion from a colonial-style villa to family-run hotel.

Down The Rocky Road

On the other side of Golden Sands is Angelo’s Traverna, a popular dinner option for those wanting ribs, grilled prawns or burgers that come with salads and other sides. It also has Greek specialties, such as souvlaki as well as kebabs (from US$5). Next door, La Pona has an assortment of Khmer and western seafood barbeques (from US$5-8.) Be prepared for a long wait between dishes if the restaurant is busy.

Opened six months ago by a Korean and a German – previous followers of the Shaolin Temple order – Cinderella Café is a recent addition to the area behind Ochheuteal Beach. Located between Tola and Mithona Streets, it serves Lavazza coffee. The espressos pack a punch and the chilled fruit drinks provide respite from a long day at the beach. Seating is available indoors and on the open terrace overlooking the street. The café also offers Korean-style noodles and German schnitzel (from US$4). A notable feature of the café is that drinks are served with eco-friendly, reusable straws that resemble bamboo. At night, the café becomes a full service bar with a pool table in the back and live music at the weekend. Next door, on either side of Cinderella, is Tropical Massage that offers the typical US$7 foot or full-body massages, and Gold Star Korean restaurant with the standard fare of soups and stir-fries from US$5.

The Path to Serendipity

The main access point to Occheuteal beach runs perpendicular to the water. Sometimes referred to as Serendipity Road, it marks where one beach begins and the other ends, with shops, restaurants, and guesthouses huddled on its edges. The road is poorly lit so proceed with caution if you’re trekking the road alone at night. EcoSea Dive has one of its branches on this road, next door to The Dive Shop, both of which offer PADI certified dive trips to the most popular and closest island of Koh Rong Samloem. Day trips start from US$59. Prices include transport, equipment, instruction and food. Along the road are backpacker hotspots Monkey Republic (rooms US$5-9) and Cool Banana Bungalows (from US$6). Both serve pub food and cheap draft beer.

A more upscale option just up the road from Monkey Republic, is Reef Resort. The well-maintained air-conditioned rooms with breakfast range from US$35 to US$80. It also has a lovely swimming pool and the restaurant serves good Mexican cuisine. Just across the road is Top Cat. The only cinema in Cambodia showing English-language movies, this is a treat for those wishing to recline on a comfy chair and down a beer while watching a Hollywood feature. Just make sure you don’t tell MGM or Warner Brothers about it.

There are some retail options on the road to be had as well. Boom Boom Room, with another location in Siem Reap, is known for its wide selection of digital recordings in addition to some clothing. Zoco Clothing too has one branch on the road, in addition to its location on Serendipity Beach, and carries an array of sartorial musts including swimwear, clothing and accessories.