What can one say about Street 240? ‘Love it’, ‘live on it’, ‘eat on it’ for starters. But if you think you've been up and down this street and seen it all, it may be worth taking another look. Words by Kate Liana.
Starting east of Street 19 you’ll hit Friends on 240, home to funky, youthful clothing and vinyl bags (US$7) adorned with art from their children’s program. They offer excellent custom tailoring and an impressive array of stretchy cotton.
If it's late afternoon it's too early for Love Orange Club, the popular Khmer discotheque that is opening a cafe next door. Too early also for Rubies, a little gem of a wine bar nestled in the corner of Street 19. Luckily Red Apron is next door, so quality wine will not elude you. The banner outside trumpeting their summer sale should not imply things are amiss. On the contrary, their carefully culled selection includes excellent deals on some high-end varieties. The tasting gallery next door is a refined but casual space perfect to sample their offerings.
Next door is Veggy's cute, well-stocked shop. Didn't think you'd get misty eyed over a box of crackers, did you? Carrying your usual assortment of food for homesick expats, the walk-in refrigerator in the back, housing produce, cheese, meat and fresh herbs is the perfect place to refresh on a hot day.
As you pass Tamarind, of delectable-Mediterranean-fare and romantic-rooftop fame, don’t forget to pop your head in and make a reservation for one of the cushioned lounge areas for the near future since they fill up fast on clear, starry nights. Then check out Comptoir next door, chic new Frenchie on the scene. Narrow and colorful, the blocky wooden tables and chairs and bright lime and cranberry color scheme give a funky, young, laid back vibe, offering salads, sandwiches, and heartier fare, with plenty of wine to wash it all down. If you take a wrong turn looking for the restaurant's second floor, keep wandering up the stairs. You may find a man with no shirt on who invites you into a small, luxurious apartment. He will only speak French so you won't be able to ask where am I? or who are you? but no mind, he's quite friendly. As he leads you through the bedroom to the balcony, don't forget to admire the elegant, tasteful decor and furniture, and the view over street 240. Slip out when his mobile rings, and leaving the building you'll see the sign for serviced apartments offered by Comptoir. Realize you just invaded a stranger's hotel room, and keep walking briskly down the block.
The fabric selection at Jasmine and sister shop Bliss is a cut above the rest. Jasmine uses all rich, vibrant-colored Cambodian silk, for well-tailored, elegant gowns (US$90 and up). They also make shoes and purses in matching colors. While using the same design sense, Bliss is all cotton. Smart, pretty florals that aren't too dowdy or scream ‘I went to a beach town!’, the cuts are feminine and stylish, showing off the figure but still appropriate for work (US$35 – 80) . They also offer bags, pillows, and a small range of stylish men's shirts (US$35). If Ferdinand the Bull was masculine enough to embrace flowers, there’s no reason you can't too.
Continue to Couleurs D'Asie's meticulously curated collection of elegant bric-a-brac. Notable are the intricately carved candles depicting Apsara dancers, Angkor lions, and Bayon heads (US$6-25), satin picture frames (US$10), scented oil from Amata (US$8), and wood chopsticks with grains of wheat encased in Lucite at the tips (US$3). A curious item that looked like a giant, quilted cell-phone case turned out to be a sleeping bag for babies, with larger sizes for their elder siblings.
If your wrists, neck or earlobes are feeling neglected, adorn them with some of the rare, unusual creations at Water Lily, a quirky shop that looks like the love child of Tim Burton and Pipi Longstocking.
By now you may be craving a break. Thankfully you can replenish yourself in the leafy backyard of The Shop with quiche, salads, sandwiches, pates, and breads (around US$3-US$5). The Pumpkin and Spinach soup will look good as the clouds roll in and a breeze stirs the air, though tough to choose between the Pear and Honey smoothie or the Lychee and Mint Cooler (US$2.50). Grab a butterfly, koala, elephant, dinosaur or flower-shaped sweet at the Chocolate Shop next door (US$4/100g) for a sugar and caffeine boost to keep you going. If this doesn't do the trick, try a Thai herbal massage at Image (US$12 for 1 hour) or the Anti-wrinkle coffee massage (US$35).
With all this wining and dining and shopping, maybe it's time to feed your brain. D's books, Openbook and Boston Book Company all offer used books on a wide selection of fiction and non-fiction, history, art, travel guides and more. Openbook has many children's books, and offers story time and drawing on Thursdays from 4-5pm.
When you see Song's ads with models in gauzy bits of fabric lounging by the sea or in a glistening forest, you may wonder where on earth this is and why your life looks nothing like it. Then a motorbike swerves into you and you dive for safety into the arms of a noodle vendor, and remember that life is not advertising. Now 20-35% off, their simple, elegant designs come in lightweight cotton, linen, hemp and silk.
Who hasn't longed to snuggle under a heavy blanket on those steamy, Cambodian nights? Maybe quilts aren't as appealing as a lemon soda or ice cold Tiger in these parts, but keep in mind for Christmas gifts or visitors from home. The silk and cotton blankets at Mekong Quilts, ranging from US$130 for a basic cotton one to US$200 for more elaborate designs are beautifully crafted and feather-soft against the skin. They also offer eyeglass cases, passport holders, Christmas ornaments (all under US$10), and a quilted hammock for US$55, a comfy alternative to the mesh version. Proceeds go towards health and sustainability projects in Svay Rieng Province.
Keo K'jay is a lovely new environmentally friendly store selling unique clothing and accessories (US$35 for bags, US$4-US$5 for funky bracelets) all made from recycled or natural materials.
At Norodom, pop into the World Bank for a loan to pay for all this loot. You'll need it at Sophy & Sina which houses chic fashions – their own and imported – priced and sized for Westerners. Shoes up to size 41 are tempting for us tall birds, and with an 80 percent salwe on now, run don't walk for a pair of turquoise, snake-skin, kitten-heeled slides so you can teeter in style.
Mini Castello. Name: odd. Lobby: pretty. Rooms: spacious, well-appointed, clean, ranging from US$25 for a single to US$45 for triple. Free breakfast, laundry and internet sweeten the deal.
If you've thoroughly fallen in love with the street, Taprum Apartments have a few available, though if you've got commitment issues, try S Gold Hotel instead. The clean, large Karaoke rooms downstairs have a decent English song list and disco balls, and the US$6 rooms on the upper floors are clean but a bit dingy. Asked if they can be rented for an hour if one is, um, sleepy and needs a nap, the vague, suggestive hand gestures made by the woman who showed the room implied that many sleepy people visit here.
Further along Panda Professional Massage is tidy with pleasant staff. Massages are US$8 an hour. Mother In-Law House (or Chez la Belle Mere, on a more appealingly translated sign) has Chinese, Khmer and Vietnamese fare. Towards Monivong, amid local guesthouses and barber shops is a maternity clinic, if it turns out OK! Condoms were named for their quality and not as an enthusiastic endorsement of safe sex. Tarmac's Corner, a cheerful little restaurant and bar offers African food such as suji with ogbono and oxtail stew, US$2.50 to US$5.
Hit Monivong and you're greeted by a giant billboard depicting broad-chested men wearing only underwear. A much smaller sign declares it the Vina Mart, and quick inspection reveals they sell more than skivvies – men and women's fashion downstairs, and a supermarket and pho cafe upstairs. Evening is approaching, so you'd best turn around and head east for a bite to eat or a sunset drink at Comptoir. Maybe take another wrong turn and see what that Frenchman is up to.
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